Craig LaBan finds that MangoMoon has the unique flavors to excite. Whether it finds its audience on Main Street in Manayunk is another matter.
[Chef Nongyao] Krapugthong’s confident hand with her native seasoning also lights a fire of new interest beneath some common dishes: lending Blue Point oysters a tingly sour splash of chile-lime sauce; igniting “Bangkok” chicken wings in a fiery glaze that elicited a surprising yelp – “Wowie-zowie!” – from my demure guest. The creamy spice of a killer satay sauce lacquered butter-tender head-on shrimp. And baby octopus, still hot from the grill, basked in a cool marinade that vibrated to the high-toned hum of fried lemongrass and Thai bird chile heat.
Krapugthong even managed to transform skewered chicken livers, marinated in the sweet dark funk of oyster sauce and soy, into crispy grilled cubes with creamy insides that have become a most unlikely bar-snack infatuation.
Two Bells – Very Good