Authenticity At El Camino Real
Adam Erace enjoys the ‘cue at El Camino Real.
The better half of El Caminoâ€™s menu pays tribute to pit-style West Texas barbecue, with Zavala smoking nine cuts of meat (plus seitan for the vegans) over applewood mesquite in the restaurantâ€™s twin 250-pound smokers. The pig wings, three smoked and deep-fried pork shanks, are my new drinking buddies. They packed all the hot, buttery satisfaction of conventional wings, plus the falling-apart texture of braised short ribs.
Priced by the quarter-pound and served with pickles, buttered thick-cut Texas toastâ€”Baker Street bakes the Wonder-like loaves exclusively for El Caminoâ€”and spicy or sweet house-made barbecue sauces, the smoked meat entrees brought out the best in the kitchen as well as the bartender.