Three Bells for ‘Magic’ Melograno
Ding ding ding! That’s the sound of Craig LaBan bestowing three rapturous bells on one of his old favorites, Melograno, which has apparently survived its relocation to Sansom Street with its mojo intact. The C-Dawg concludes:
“This restaurant has built a following on its gift for making a familiar Philly concept, the Italian BYOB, as good as it can be. I’m just thrilled to know this little gem survived the move to larger quarters, and that [chef-owner] Gianluca Demontis didn’t forget to pack his pinch of magic.”
There are more references to magic, plus much waxing poetic on snail soup, re-imagined spaghetti carbonara and house-cured pancetta.