Lacroix For Less At Bar 210
Following on the heels of Matthew Levin leaving Lacroix, Adam Erace has a review of Bar 210, the more affordable bar at the Rittenhouse. It provides an interesting tease into what Levin could be planning next.
[Matthew Levin’s] a sneaky bastard, slipping Coca-Cola into the tempura-fried shiitakesâ€™ soy-sauce dip, spiking fresh-squeezed lemonade with tequila and jalapeÃ±os. In Levinâ€™s world, the chicken â€œnuggetsâ€ are the size of bricks and the strawberry â€œpearlsâ€ floating in the cardamom-laced Champagne involve a gelling agent called Kappa and a medical syringe.
Levin captains Lacroix with the mischievous spirit of a little boy who just tricked his grandma into eating a bug. And Bar 210 sells the food heâ€™d make for his co-conspirators: conceptual comfort stuffâ€”ooh, the meatloaf gratin!â€”and guilty pleasures tapped from deep, dark places in our subconscious.