Lacroix For Less At Bar 210

Following on the heels of Matthew Levin leaving Lacroix, Adam Erace has a review of Bar 210, the more affordable bar at the Rittenhouse. It provides an interesting tease into what Levin could be planning next.

[Matthew Levin’s] a sneaky bastard, slipping Coca-Cola into the tempura-fried shiitakes’ soy-sauce dip, spiking fresh-squeezed lemonade with tequila and jalapeños. In Levin’s world, the chicken “nuggets” are the size of bricks and the strawberry “pearls” floating in the cardamom-laced Champagne involve a gelling agent called Kappa and a medical syringe.

Levin captains Lacroix with the mischievous spirit of a little boy who just tricked his grandma into eating a bug. And Bar 210 sells the food he’d make for his co-conspirators: conceptual comfort stuff—ooh, the meatloaf gratin!—and guilty pleasures tapped from deep, dark places in our subconscious.

Playing the Numbers [Philadelphia Weekly]
Bar 210 at Lacroix [Official Site]