Not Italian In Collingswood
Don’t be fooled by the name, LoBianco isn’t another Italian BYOB along Haddon Avenue in Collingswood. Instead, Nick and Stephanie serve up New American cuisine with hints of French and Asian influences.
This crisp bistro space, with cream-colored exposed brick walls and an open kitchen slipped into a side-street storefront off Haddon Avenue in the new Lumberyard complex, has more of a casual neighborhood feel than the black-leather-lounge look of their Margate digs.
But Stephanie still runs the dining room with a familial warmth. And their regulars will recognize much of LoBianco’s tried-and-true menu repertoire, including the big short rib, a yakitori-glazed mop of superbly tender meat on a Flintstone-sized bone with grilled scallions and Yukon mashed potatoes. There’s also a meaty fillet of pistachio-crusted halibut next to a crock of crab “cassole,” a cryptic name for what is essentially luscious crab and artichoke dip with the addition of white beans.
Two Bells – Very Good