MÃ©mÃ©’s A Gem
Adam Erace has lots of praise for David Katz’s MÃ©mÃ©.
The air-chilled, naturally raised Gianonne bird smelled like fall. Actually, every snug corner of the BYOB did, aromatic smoke and steam wafting from the open kitchen. Brown butter and cut wood and crispy animal skin.
Katzâ€™s always-changing chalkboard menu clings to embers of autumn, while moving us gingerly into winterâ€™s all-day braises and root vegetables: soft cubes of butternut squash aside two perfectly seared scallops; with a Canadian maple halo ringing a divine foie gras tart layered with caramelized onions and Fuji apples.