David Snyder At Talula’s Table
David Snyder has his first review for City Paper today and it is at the hardest table to get in America, Talula’s Table.
A key factor that sets Talula’s apart is the care Sikora and Olexy put into sourcing their ingredients. Like many area chefs, Sikora stays fresh and local. But the couple take it a step further â€” clipping fresh tarragon from their personal garden for the rich summer squash lobster tart; foraging a local trail for epazote, a pungent Mexican herb Sikora uses to make oil that accompanies a mushroom and goat cheese papusa, a humble tower of maitake and white beech mushrooms and cakes made from masa harina, a traditional Mexican flour.
But there’s a bigger reason Sikora’s food stands out: He has an innate ability to construct dishes that excel on two levels simultaneously. On one hand, he’s able to create a forum on a plate that allows each ingredient to grab a bit of the spotlight â€” their identities are surprisingly clean and crisp, each component delicately expressing its voice at just the right time. But as the flavors continue to layer, they roll into one clear, unifying composition. The result: dishes that are remarkably deep without sacrificing simplicity.