Upping Edible Ante At SPTR


SPTRIn Elisa Ludwig’s last review as a City Paper restaurant critic she visits the South Philadelphia Taproom where she finds a food menu that’s trying to match the beer selection.

SPTR builds on the classic model: a casually delivered combination of basic sandwiches, fried items and relatively exotic animal parts, with an emphasis on the latter. Everything — from the boar bacon to the veggie burger — is made in-house. Props to Zulli for this approach, making food a bigger priority. But in the end, execution counts more than ambition, and SPTR might want to consider paring down the kooky stuff for simpler, more consistent fare.

SPTing Image [City Paper]