Craig LaBan’s review of South Street’s Sonam reminds us of a Ryan Howard at bat. When chef Ben Byruch connects he often hit a home run but there were too many whiffs in the ambitious menu. But hey, at least he’s trying for a home run.
Among the most memorable were the “hamachi nachos,” tortilla chips topped with yellowtail sushi and a spicy streak of oil infused with the essence of pico de gallo. There is also a memorable savory trompe l’oeil twist on S’Mores, in which broiled goat-cheese “marshmallows” sit atop the chocolate lookalike of reduced figs and whole meal crackers for a clever campfire twist on the cheese course.
The Asian chicken sliders – three brioche-bun minis topped with a ponzu mayonnaise – are among the best poultry burgers I’ve ever had. Granted, that’s not a high bar, but I’ve actually come to crave these moist and gingery little patties.
One Bell – Hit or Miss