Popp In Le Bec-Fin
Trey Popp tries out the jeans friendly incarnation of Le Bec-Fin and finds it hasn’t relaxed that much but the food still top notch.
The food remains excellent. Perrier’s signature crab cake, which almost plays more like an unusually luxurious frittata than the classic Maryland treatment, is truly a unique pleasure. The spring peas in a risotto appetizer popped perfectly between the teeth, and even the foam on top was intensely creamy. The diver scallops were just tremendous, cleverly scored in a waffle pattern to catch the mustard seeds in a mango vinaigrette, which in turn played a delightful counterpoint to the savory, carpaccio-thin slices of heart of palm. Add the watery crispness of jicama cubes circling the bowl, and you can banish the thought that this kitchen has gotten stodgy in old age.