LaBan Reviews Las Bugambilias

Carlos Molina who was a longtime chef at Tequila’s now has his own place, Las Bugambilias on South Street. Craig LaBan visits and approves the authentic flavors and polished decor.

Other classic starters rose on the freshness of ingredients and a respect for simplicity. The guacamole was addictively chunky and lightly seasoned. The seviche mixto filled a glass cup of lime- and wine-splashed tomato juice with perfectly tender shrimp, flounder and crab.

Molina’s strong suit at Los Catrines/Tequila’s was always meat, and he delivers some memorable entrees here, including a tender “medallon del rancho,” a filet with poblano cream over pumpkin blossoms, and another filet special that came over an ebony dark sauce of pureed dry chiles that was mysteriously complex and addictively spicy. The skirt steak “tampiqueña,” wrapped around a Chihuahua cheese-stuffed poblano pepper, was a bit complicated texturally for its own good, but the cheese-meat-chile trio sang in warm harmony.

Two Bells – Very Good

Las Bugambilias [Philadelphia Inquirer]