Silk City Lives Again
Adam Erace dines at the soap opera that is the Silk City Diner and finds that despite the kitchen drama, the food delivers.
Silk City’s menu is definitely dineresque — hanger steak, meat loaf, grilled cheese and tomato — but the place doesn’t feel like it’s trying too hard to be cheeky or retro-chic. The food is interesting, flavorful, and unpretentious, not to mention served in inexpensive, obnoxiously large portions.
This is an accomplishment for a kitchen that’s been a veritable Maury show. North 3rd chef Peter Dunmire helmed the ship until Bee hired David Katz, but Katz left within weeks after issues with menu alterations, and in a recent interview, called Silk City “Applebee’s,” in so many words.
This all went down the very week I ate at Silk City, and Dunmire has since returned to re-re-focus the kitchen. According to Bee, I sampled a little of both chefs’ menus, and though these guys got menu-mama-drama, my yummy meal hardly tasted like sour grapes.