Embrace The New Silk City
Out with the old in with the better as Mark Bee’s Silk City Diner is not the old Silk.
Here’s a more important similarity with Bee’s other joint: The food is remarkable. Chef Peter Dunmire, the unstoppable force behind N. 3rd’s dreamy wasabi-spiked tuna burgers and addictive soba noodles, has rewritten the diner’s menu with characteristic understatement. Burgers, sure. Buffalo wings, whatever. In writing, it all sounds pretty basic. The real impact is at the table, when even a hummus appetizer turns out to be intricately crafted and richly flavored, with a surprise sprinkle of dried chickpeas on top. Formica tables notwithstanding, this “diner” is less Flo and more French bistro.