PW Reviews Osteria
Kirsten Henri finds the cure for a hangover and “sublime smoothness” at Osteria, even as the service is surprisingly uneven.
Ah, the food. Who wouldâ€™ve thought a simple bowl of fusilli tossed with fresh fava beans, coated in creamy pecorino and scattered with brilliant fresh mint would be so utterly addictive? How to explain how two potentially clashing flavorsâ€”stinky gorgonzola and bitter radicchioâ€”make beautiful music over rigatoni? How could a dish as simple as a pizza with tomato, oregano, baked eggplant and stracciatella cheese be elevated to something so superior to its individual parts?