La Bohème

Kirsten Henri visits the new La Bohème near Graduate Hospital and gives us one piece of advise, “stick with the seafood.”

Warm wild mushrooms chopped with pistachios and glistening with truffle oil offered a heady thump of forest flavor without all that richness. I also loved the Provencal-style preparation of baby squid, a tomato-forward broth loaded with garlic and a quiet note of anise. I’d have really loved it if the squid hadn’t been so chewy and tough.

A plate of tuna and salmon carpaccios reclined side by side like fraternal twins, their jewel-toned flesh aglow. The fish was very cold, and thus not very flavorful. Topping the salmon with a tiny pile of chopped olives made for an odd combination; the basil oil drizzled on the tuna only slightly less so.

French Connection [Philadelphia Weekly]