Elisa Ludwig takes in Miraku, a recent addition to Philadelphia’s Japanese restaurant scene. There are some stars among the dishes, especially the tempura.
Sadly, the bar’s output — while perfectly acceptable — is not transcendent, lacking the crisp nori, vibrantly flavored fish and precise presentation that make for truly great maki and sushi. Most memorable is the complex arrangement of textures in the Miraku roll, which features spicy tuna blanketed with sweet barbecued eel, thin slices of avocado and a sprinkling of black tobiko. There’s also no denying the decadent pleasure of the tornado roll — lobster tempura embedded in Japanese mayo, lettuce and caviar.