Craig LaBan is in West Chester this week checking out the cooking of David Cox at the Marshalton Inn. Cox, who has cooked at “cheese meccas” of Picholine and Artisanal, has returned home to give this inn a boost.
A crock of French onion soup seems familiar at first, almost mundane, but its deeply steeped broth and tangy lid of melted Comte and gruyere are a perfect example of the honest bistro spirit Cox aims for, rooted in classic sensibilities but elevated with good ingredients and solid cooking. Cox even redefines macaroni and cheese with a five-cheese Euro blend (from mascarpone to Vacherin) that nails the balance between creamy luxury and pungent tang better than any other haughty-macaroni I’ve tasted. The butter parmesan bread crumbs on top don’t hurt.
Two Bells – Very Good
Marshalton Inn [Philadelphia Inquirer]