Restaurant Reviews

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Chasing Perfect: Hiroki Reviewed

This review should be two sentences long. Six words, total: Hiroki is perfect. Go there now. Nothing more. No justification. No explanation. Just go in […]

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Through the Locked Door: Alpen Rose Reviewed

The door at Alpen Rose is locked. There’s a bell. You ring it, and one of the panels opens, a friendly face on the other […]

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Home Away From Home: Kalaya Reviewed

On a weekday night, the dining room at Kalaya is cool and calm. Servers move smoothly between the tables. They stop and chat. Owners Chutatip […]

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That Jawn: Angelo’s Pizzeria Reviewed

It doesn’t matter that it was a beautiful day when I went walking to check out Angelo’s for the first time — a gorgeous sun-shining, […]

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One More Time, With Feeling: Pizzeria Beddia Reviewed

Let’s get something out of the way right here at the start. This place isn’t the old Pizzeria Beddia. It can’t be — could never […]

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Pretty Isn’t Enough: Aether Reviewed

I honestly don’t know what to tell you about Aether. I’ve been thinking about it for days — conflicted over what I experienced and what […]

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No More Tears: Cry Baby Pasta Reviewed

Cry Baby Pasta entered the game with multiple strikes against it. It’s another Italian restaurant in a city already too full of Italian restaurants. It […]

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True Names: Neighborhood Ramen Reviewed

I don’t even know what to call the thing I’m eating. This bowl—this perfect bowl—of noodles, kinked just a little, and rich, fatty pork bone […]

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Just Say Yes: Amma’s South Indian Cuisine Reviewed

When the server asks if you want it spicy, just say yes. Say yes, and keep saying yes. And don’t worry, because it won’t be […]

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Sweet, Sour, Bitter and Bright: Chatayee Thai Reviewed

“Everyone’s trying to be modern today, and that’s great, but I’m going in the other direction — 100 years back.” That was chef Chatayee Venus […]

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The Good-Time Machine: Giuseppe & Sons Reviewed

There’s a moment at Giuseppe & Sons, the new art installation from the Schulson Collective, that’s pure magic. If you’ve been there—which is likely, judging […]

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Seeing Red: Nunu Reviewed

Red, mostly. That’s what you notice first about Nunu, the new izakaya from Ben Puchowitz and Shawn Darragh. Red lights. Red neon. A fat rainstorm […]

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Comforts of Home: Sarvida Reviewed

You have to be in the mood for scrambled eggs and eggplant. And I’m not talking an adventurous mood, because the tortang talong at Lou […]

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An Easy Confidence: Porch & Proper Reviewed

Porch & Proper is the new restaurant from a pair of Starr expats who have gone to Jersey to serve pasta and doughnuts and cioppino. […]

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Pomp and Circumstance: Louie Louie Reviewed

There was a moment at Louie Louie, the new restaurant at the Inn at Penn, when I thought everything was going to be okay. It […]