Restaurant Reviews

Foobooz

True Names: Neighborhood Ramen Reviewed

I don’t even know what to call the thing I’m eating. This bowl—this perfect bowl—of noodles, kinked just a little, and rich, fatty pork bone […]

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Just Say Yes: Amma’s South Indian Cuisine Reviewed

When the server asks if you want it spicy, just say yes. Say yes, and keep saying yes. And don’t worry, because it won’t be […]

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Sweet, Sour, Bitter and Bright: Chatayee Thai Reviewed

“Everyone’s trying to be modern today, and that’s great, but I’m going in the other direction — 100 years back.” That was chef Chatayee Venus […]

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The Good-Time Machine: Giuseppe & Sons Reviewed

There’s a moment at Giuseppe & Sons, the new art installation from the Schulson Collective, that’s pure magic. If you’ve been there—which is likely, judging […]

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Seeing Red: Nunu Reviewed

Red, mostly. That’s what you notice first about Nunu, the new izakaya from Ben Puchowitz and Shawn Darragh. Red lights. Red neon. A fat rainstorm […]

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Comforts of Home: Sarvida Reviewed

You have to be in the mood for scrambled eggs and eggplant. And I’m not talking an adventurous mood, because the tortang talong at Lou […]

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An Easy Confidence: Porch & Proper Reviewed

Porch & Proper is the new restaurant from a pair of Starr expats who have gone to Jersey to serve pasta and doughnuts and cioppino. […]

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Pomp and Circumstance: Louie Louie Reviewed

There was a moment at Louie Louie, the new restaurant at the Inn at Penn, when I thought everything was going to be okay. It […]

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Scratch the Surface: Spice Finch Reviewed

If we’re going to talk about Spice Finch, we have to start off by talking about the lamb ribs. The lamb ribs are big. Beautiful […]

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For the Love of the Game: Andiario Reviewed

I’m so excited the day after I eat at Andiario, I tell everyone I know about it. I make phone calls. I write emails. I […]

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Art and Commerce: Talk Reviewed

I went to Talk for the first time when it was very young — just a couple weeks old. I sat at the bar, drank […]

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Soul Food: L’Anima Reviewed

At the hostess stand, they’re waiting for me when I walk in. Not because I have reservations. Not because anyone recognizes me coming. Just because […]

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Imperfect Intimacy: The Bercy Reviewed

The Bercy is beautiful. That’s the first thing you’re going to think when you walk in, I promise. It is gorgeous. Lit like a 1940s […]

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One Simple Thing: Bishos Cafe and Bakery Reviewed

In the morning, people come to Bishos for ijeh — an omelet with parsley and onions — and orange juice from the big, grinding, clanking […]

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Back to Basics: The Ripplewood Reviewed

The narrow bar downstairs is already filling up with locals on a Friday night when I stroll in — late for my reservation after fighting […]