Denise Cohen—who managed Sisters for 17 years—has started an Indiegogo account to fund a new lesbian bar in Philadelphia. The project is quite ambitious—and mysterious as all get out.
“You can drink as many of these as you want,” our server said brightly. “They’re good for you!”
The concoction in question, a Green Garden Margarita, featured what Lolita’s new menu called “green stuff” and our waitress had likened to a “juice cleanse, only with tequila in it.”
So there you have it, ladies and gentlemen! The reason Marcie Turney and Valerie Safran, after ten years running Lolita–every Center City twenty-something’s favorite modern Mexican BYOB–went out and got a liquor license: to dole out Mason jars of juiced spinach, kale, celery, basil, cucumber, ginger and Cozadores Reposado.
Marcie Turney and Valerie Safran’s first restaurant is all grown up. Lolita, which opened as a BYOB ten years ago comes back tonight with a liquor license and a new look, the result of a months long renovation. Among the changes, a sixteen seat bar and chef’s counter that looks into the open kitchen.
Also revamped is the menu. Inspired by Turney’s recent trips to Mexico City, the food is inspired by Mexican street food and includes tacos, ceviches and other traditional plates. Rest assured carne asada loyalist, that signature Lolita dish remains. Freshly made tortillas, formed from a hand-cranked press in the open kitchen will form the base for eight taco dishes that populate the menu. A rotating spit, or trompo, will slow cook layers of thinly cut meats.
Valerie Safran and Marcie Turney are still a couple of weeks away from opening the re-vamp of their first restaurant, modern Mexican Lolita, but the place already has polish to spare and we were lucky to get an early glimpse.
Safran and Turney have transformed Lolita–once a narrow, rectangular, rosy-hued room with an open kitchen smushed in to the middle of the space–to a layout that feels much more open. While it is, of course, still narrow, the kitchen and bar now run along one side of the room, creating ample bar seating that affords a primo view of cocktails being shaken, tortillas being rolled (on a Mexican machine complete with menacing safety illustrations), and meat sizzling shawarma-style on a vertical roaster.
Tonight is Women Against Abuse’s Dish It Up 2014 event. The night features food, fashion and fun as it features food from premier female restaurateurs and chefs in the city.
Dish It Up 2014 will also feature the brand new Woman of the Year Award to honor women leaders who have shown “extraordinary support of the movement to end domestic violence in Philadelphia.” The first honorees are chef Marcie Turney and Valerie Safran – whose seven restaurants and boutiques on 13th Street in Philadelphia have helped transform the Midtown Village neighborhood into what it is today.
Tickets for the event are now sold out but join us in congratulating Turney and Safran.
Well there’s finally word on what’s going on with Marcie Turney and Valerie Safran’s Lolita in the Gayborhood. The 10-year-old Mexican restaurant closed for renovations last August, and is expected to re-open this spring “with a fresh look, a new Mexican street food-inspired menu and a full liquor license.” Here’s more on the food, drinks and the new look from a press release:
Ingrid Williams visits Little Nonna’s for the New York Times. The only flaw she finds is in the pricy wine list.
[O]n a chilly evening in November, I couldn’t resist the Sunday gravy. A heaping portion of “gravy” (marinara made with San Marzano tomatoes) and paccheri (the macaroni of the day) arrived on one platter, and on another were assorted meats — pork braciole, spicy fennel sausage, meatballs stuffed with fontina. Other memorable dishes deviated from the traditional tried and true, like bruschetta with roasted figs, Gorgonzola dolce, celery hearts and crunchy hazelnuts. And a standout pasta dish featured braised duck, pecorino and turnips atop chestnut ravioli stuffed with roasted heirloom squash.
The 2014 James Beard Foundation Semifinalists have been announced. Local chefs and restaurateurs and restaurants made it to the semifinals in ten categories including Outstanding Restaurant, Fork, and three nominees for Rising Star Chef of the Year, Chris Kearse, Will, Ben Puchowitz, Cheu Noodle Bar and Ben Nerenhausen, Mistral (Princeton, NJ).
Trey Popp finds that Marcie Turney has breathed new life into red-gravy Italian at Little Nonna’s.
Just to be safe, though, order the polenta and meatballs to share; Turney packs her cornmeal with enough cream, taleggio, fontina and parmesan to put the most shameless cheese grits to shame. And you’ll want to have room at dinner’s far end for pastry chef Sara May’s spumoni, which ditches the usual neon palette in favor of a moody sundae richly muddled with roasted cherries, chocolate pizzelles and pistachio-olive oil.
Three Stars – Excellent
Restaurant Review: Next-Level Comfort Food at Little Nonna’s [Philadelphia Magazine]
Little Nonna’s [Foobooz]
Little Nonna’s, the red-gravy restaurant from Marcie Turney and Valerie Safran opens to the public tonight and we’ve got the menus. So check out what you’ll be eating, from “Big Mama’s Meatballs” to Grilled Swordfish Oreganata.
Reservations are available by calling 215-546-2100.
Little Nonna’s [Official Site]