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I go to Cinder on a gray afternoon, looking for comfort and distraction, and find it at the bar—two giant TVs showing football on one […]
On a cold night in December, we threaded our way through the crowds on Sansom Street and found the unobtrusive door. We pushed through the […]
I ate the mandoo at Bop and they were fine. Tasted like a thousand other dumplings at a hundred other American-Asian restaurants in a dozen […]
Breakfast is the last great, untouched frontier. Of all the meals available to us (lunch, dinner, supper, elevenses, fourthmeal, midnight snacks, etc.), breakfast is […]
My wife, Laura, hated Jansen as soon as she walked through the door. To be fair, she actually hated it before she walked through the […]
On a Sunday night, Stove & Tap is busy. Not full, but I’m not really sure there would ever be enough people dining out in […]
When Opa first opened, it was loud, brash, crowded and dull. The kitchen seemed incapable of dependably executing the most basic dishes. The cooks were […]
This is what you do. You go to Sate Kampar on a first date. You save it for someone special—for when Tinder, the phone psychic, […]
The first time I went to Scott Schroeder’s new restaurant, Hungry Pigeon, I showed up for breakfast and liked it so much, I stayed for […]
When the server told me the special for the night was a plate of snails packed with herb butter, I didn’t get them, because snails […]
The thing that matters most about Clarkville is where it lives. It’s a pizza restaurant with good beer, a single solid pasta, and a short, […]
The 1990s were a bad time for the American restaurant scene. We were, as an emerging culinary entity, in our first youth—like awful (if precocious) […]
It was the bologna that threw me. I mean, really, it was everything. But it was the bologna most of all, because I loved the […]
The first time I walked into Revolution Taco, they were playing “Blister in the Sun,” and all the people in the neighborhood were still getting […]
The steakhouse is the dullest kind of restaurant. There’s no surprise in a steakhouse. No shock, no awe. The best things you can hope to […]