The Dutch is expanding west — and up — this summer: Joncarl Lachman and Lee Styer will bring The Dutch Grill, a rooftop version of their Pennsport concept, to Bok Bar on Sundays.
There are only two reasons why we get so giddy when soft-shell season comes around, two reasons why we like eating them at all:
- Eating soft-shell crabs is a no-fuss way of eating crabs (which is an otherwise very fussy experience with the shell on).
- It makes us feel alive.
Digging into them with a fork and knife — really, eating any animal whole like that — is a pretty primal experience in itself.
But let’s take it a step further, shall we? Let’s chomp into them without using any utensils at all. Let’s just stuff them between bread and rip into them like the beasts that we are. We’re at the top of this food chain, so we might as well act like it.
Starting this weekend, you’ll be able to satisfy your craving for Lancaster County-style fried chicken and eggs Benedict after 3 p.m. The Dutch, Pennsport’s destination for brunch, is now offering dinner Friday through Sunday.
I don’t know if brunch has a season, really. But something about the warming temperatures and the clearing skies makes me think about lazy Sunday mornings full of waffles and liquor.
What’s more, there’s been a significant amount of movement in Philly’s brunch scene lately — the sense of an entire section of the restaurant industry gearing up for those same sunny days. We’ve got new brunches, updated brunches, bottomless brunches, all sorts of things. So for those of you out there for whom brunch is a vital part of the weekend routine, we’ve got some suggestions. A list of Where To Eat Brunch Right Now. And it begins with…
There was a time — long before food blogs existed, long before the rise of cheflebrities — when the world assumed kitchen workers ate like royalty at home — because of course they did. Because chefs are around great ingredients every waking hour of the day, there’s no chance that they go home to peanut butter and jelly.
But when the world got obsessed with food, secrets were spilled. And now we know: the guy who built that 18-course menu with caviar and gold leaf? He probably wen’t home to a lovely spread of instant ramen and Arby’s. And there’s no shame in that. The kitchen is exhausting and junk food is easy. It makes sense.
But that’s where the love affair between chef and junk food begins, and it doesn’t stop there. Here, now, nine junk foods reimagined by some of our city’s best chefs.
It all started with drunken omelettes. As the story goes, after a night of heavy drinking, Noord’s Joncarl Lachman and Fond’s Lee Styer had a serious case of the munchies, so they went into Fond’s kitchen and fried up some eggs together. As it turns out, they’re pretty damn good at that sort of thing. Like Best of Philly-good.
And wouldn’t you know it, it’s been one full year of omelettes, uitsmijters, and Lebanon bologna at The Dutch. The crew is planning to celebrate its birthday on April 17th, not with brunch, but a fancy dinner party instead. Read more »
We brought in chefs from The Dutch and the Broad Table Tavern for an Open Stove all-soup challenge. We gave them cans and cans and cans of the stuff–plus some ramen, some miso, some onion soup in a packet. We gave them as much soup as we could load into the kitchen. And the weird thing?
No one made soup.
If Part 1 was a tale of woe and eventual closures, and Part 2 was a turning point in a year that’d started off rough, then Part 3 is a redemption story. The summer of 2016 was one of the best times to be an eater in Philadelphia in recent memory, and it all started with the best new restaurant opening of the year thus far: Michael Schulson’s Double Knot.
What Eric Daelhousen of South Philly Smökhaus loves so much about traditional Pennsylvania Dutch barbecue is that it “brings out the greatest things in people–it creates a space to talk, to laugh, to eat.” And so, on Saturday, October 8th, he is doing a one-day pop-up at The Dutch to bring this cuisine to a neighborhood that lacks it.
Breakfast is the last great, untouched frontier. Of all the meals available to us (lunch, dinner, supper, elevenses, fourthmeal, midnight snacks, etc.), breakfast is the most pure, the most un-fuck-with-able. No one in his right mind tries to innovate during breakfast. No one tries to dazzle you with technical wizard-powers or supply lines to long-lost fruits and vegetables. Breakfast is toast and jelly. Coffee. Pancakes. Eggs and bacon. Waffles in all their myriad glories. It is, occasionally, oatmeal. Complicated (but comforting) pastries. Half a grapefruit doused in Wild Turkey. Whatever.
I love congee and chilaquiles as much as anyone, but Americans own breakfast the way the French do dinner. We have stolen all the great ideas ever had about breakfast and made them our own. Americans are so good at breakfast that our canon doesn’t extend merely to regional variations, but to social, religious, economic and historic ones as well. The trucker’s breakfast is a thing. The yoga breakfast. The camp breakfast. The Lutheran pancake social or Continental or Southerner’s petit déjeuner. Breakfast knows no bounds save temporal. And brunch? Well, brunch doesn’t even have those rules to adhere to. Brunch laughs at the notion of rules.