Terence Feury goes to Swedesboro and opens Tavro 13. But Trey Popp asks, is he what Swedesboro wants?
Feury is cooking as compellingly as ever. A crisp-skinned fillet of black bass made that clear. Sauced with shrimp jus and topped with blood orange suprêmes, with a bergamot hollandaise to provide a second-level spin on the citrus theme, the fish was exquisitely cooked and emblematic of the focused flavors that distinguished the chef’s work at Fork. And by no means did that dish lack company. A sea scallop entrée glistened with ginger butter, the fat accentuating the ginger’s fruity fragrance and attenuating its heat, but not so drastically as to deprive the accompanying sweet parsnip puree of a slightly spicy dance partner.
Two Stars – Good
Restaurant Review: Seasonal American Eats at Tavro 13 [Philadelphia Magazine]
Tavro 13 [Official Site]
Tavro 13 is a long way from Philadelphia. You take I-95 to the Commodore Barry Bridge, follow 322 to Kings Highway, and park outside a onetime inn that predates the Revolutionary War. And then the real journey begins.
The porch trim has been painted black and the rocking chairs bright red, but from the sleepy sidewalk, the Old Swedes Inn still looks like a place where you would have found a hitching post not that long ago. But now you step inside—where black and red turn into shock and awe. Tight dresses style the hostesses like black widow spiders walking on two legs, or maybe nightclub vodka reps. Cherry leather banquettes pop against blackout wainscoting—as vivid as lipstick on a lounge singer. Here’s a rococo sofa, red-rose velvet framed in blinding gold leaf. There’s a brand-spanking-new sandstone fireplace as big as a bus shelter.
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Last week we told you about the restaurants that added soft shell crabs to their menu. Now, soft-shell season has really heated up. A number of area restaurants have added the tasty summer treat to their menus.
More soft-shell crabs in Philadelphia »
Tavro Thirteen in Swedesboro has a special Louisiana crayfish with chicken sausage and beignets on the menu currently. The crayfish were flown in fresh from Louisiana and look delicious. As always, Tavro Thirteen will be hosting their Monday service industry night from 7 p.m. to midnight with $1 domestic bottles, $2 imports, $3 select drafts, and $3 cocktail specials. If you are in the Swedesboro area you should go grab some crayfish before Tavro runs out.
Tavro 13 [Official Site]
Craig LaBan likes what he sees from chef Terence Feury’s Tavro 13. Well everything except maybe the decor.
Feury at his best, especially with top-notch seafood, is worth the visit, whether for pristine Fire River oysters with Champagne mignonette, scallop ceviche enlivened with lime and chiles, or tender calamari marinated in serrano chile oil and seared on the plancha with pureed almonds and preserved lemon.
A swordfish over squash puree with pumpkin seeds was meltingly moist. Seared cod topped with parsley and potato chips provided the perfect flake-and-crunch contrast to the funky pairing of soft, potatoey salt cod brandade.
Two Bells – Very Good
Tavro 13 [Philadelphia Inquirer]
Tavro 13 [Official Site]
I was more than a little shocked when I heard that longtime Fork chef Terence Feury was headed to Swedesboro, New Jersey, to open Tavro 13. And based on numerous experiences at Fork, I was even more shocked when an early visit wasn’t delightful. Read more »
Former Meme owner and chef David Katz will be heading to Tavro 13 in New Jersey with Terence Feury. Michael Klein says Katz will help with the opening and will develop the wine list.
As for Katz’s Meme location, a liquor license has popped up registered to Dan Clark, owner of nearby Pub & Kitchen. No word yet on whether this will wind up being the Bedford Cafe concept the P&K team wanted to open at 20th and Kater. That plan was short-circuited when neighbors, who were against the cafe, bought the building themselves.
Chef Chat: David Katz to New Jersey [The Insider]
We’re just a day away from being able to try Chris Kearse’s food at Will. But he isn’t the only chef who we’re looking forward to trying.
Michael Santoro was the opening chef at Talula’s Garden and his resume includes the respected Blue Duck Tavern in Washington D.C., Fat Duck in England and Mugaritz in Spain is opening Mildred in early September.
In September Eli Kulp will take over the kitchen at Ellen Yin’s Fork in Old City. Kulp comes to Philadelphia from New York and the popular Torrisi Italian Specialties. Culp is a Culinary Institute of America graduate and has also worked in Manhattan’s Casa Lever, La Fonda del Sol and Del Posto. Chef Kulp is a graduate of the Culinary Institute of America.
The always impressive Terence Feury who left Fork will be back cooking as the chef-owner of Tavro 13 in Swedesboro, New Jersey.
Joncarl Lachman who comes to Philadelphia from Chicago is looking for a spot to open Winkel, a Dutch and Northern European restaurant. Certainly something we don’t have now in Philadelphia.
Another respected chef from out of town looking for a restaurant space in Philadelphia is chef John Shields of the acclaimed Town House in Chilhowie, VA. He moved to West Chester earlier this year and hopes to open in 2013.
Looks like things are coming along just fine at Terence Feury‘s Tavro 13 / Old Swedes Inn project. And I know this because he’s currently looking for a heavyweight GM to run the front of the house for him when Tavro 13 opens in September. Here’s what they’re looking for:
Chef Terence Feury is looking for a GM for his new American restaurant on King’s Highway in Swedesboro, New Jersey. The restaurant is set to open in September. Candidates must have the ability to lead the front of house team, create a service manual, hire and train front of house staff. Additional responsibilities will include wine service, knowledge of food and beverage and the ability to work with the chef to insure synchronized service and the most positive guest service. Send resumes to: hiringtavro13@AOL.com
But hey, maybe FOH just ain’t your bag. Maybe you’re looking for something more along the lines of a pastry cook’s gig at Route 6 or being a line cook at Talula’s Table. If so, you should really be checking out the Foobooz jobs page, where these positions and more are available for the asking.
So what are you waiting for?
Foobooz Jobs [Foobooz]
In a big score for New Jersey, word has just come down that Terence Feury, after a three-and-a-half year run as chef at Ellen Yin‘s Fork, will be leaving to become chef-partner at Tavro 13 in Swedesboro.
Klein has the details over on the Insider, but the nut of it is that Feury’s out, Yin is in the market for a new chef, current sous chef Luke Eschbach will be taking over the kitchen in the interim, and Tavro 13 is looking to be ready to open at the end of August.
Terence Feury Leaving Fork [The Insider]