THERE’S NO DOUBT ABOUT IT—THIS IS MARC VETRI’S OSTERIA. It’s 8 p.m. on a Saturday night, with a 45-minute wait and good-looking people standing three-deep at the bar. Ever-present beverage director Steve Wildy hustles in his ever-present dark gray suit, uncorking the second $75-plus bottle of red for two beefy guys who loom over a Lombarda pizza, which Food & Wine deemed the restaurant’s “signature” pie. Chef and partner Brad Spence, his whites strangely clean, surveys the dining room, which is tight and loud and thick with the aromas of braised rabbit and dry-aged rib eye and that magical wild boar bolognese. It’s exactly what we expect Osteria to be.
Except for one little hitch—the giant blue neon sign shining in through the front windows: SEARS.
Because here’s the thing: We’re not on North Broad.
We’re in a mall.
And not the swanky King of Prussia mall, or even the newly Nordstrom-ed Cherry Hill Mall.
We’re in the Moorestown Mall.
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