Photo by Scott Charles Schroeder III
Look for the nipple. That’s the secret to a great madeleine — the nipple, or téton as the French would say. It’s the bump on the backside of the shell-shaped dessert native to the town of Commercy in the Lorraine region; the bigger the nipple, the fluffier the cake.
Hungry Pigeon’s madeleines? Well, you’ll see.
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Scott Schroeder and the Hungry Pigeon team are kicking off a series of family dinners. The idea is to do meticulous versions of comfort food for parties of 4 to 14. And the initial dinner is built around lasagna and is being offered now through Saturday, December 10th.
The dinner is $40 per person and in addition to the main course of lasagna, which is made with housemade pasta and Country Time Farm pork, it isaccompanied by Hungry Pigeon’s own prosciutto, baked oysters, roasted brussel sprouts and much more. Schroeder tells us that each dinner will come with an optional drink pairing. In this case, three “cool wines” for $30. In addition to finding 3 friends, you also have to give the restaurant 24-hours notice to prepare the Family dinner.
Schroeder is planning lots of warming dinners through the winter and wants to continue the specials through the summer, when things like a lobster boil will be on the calendar.
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In today’s review of the Hungry Pigeon, Jason Sheehan praises chef/owner Scott Schroeder’s breakfast and lunch. He does however have some issues with dinner, namely the amount of un-stemmed greens placed on top of the goat stroganoff, a definite pet peeve of Sheehan’s.
Until, on top of all this, the kitchen adds a literal pile of rough-cut dill and green herbs so thickly applied, it’s like they were dumped on with both hands. It is a distractingly large amount of greenery, and, worse, the rustic, casual, un-fussy way it’s chopped leaves the entire dish threaded with stems that are both unpleasant in texture and astringent in flavor and do nothing but get caught in my teeth. From bite to bite I hate the dish, then love it as I catch some resonance between sweetness, sourness and the creamy, warm richness of the sauce and want more.
Scott Schroeder of course responds »
The breakfast sandwich at Hungry Pigeon KOs the Egg McMuffin | Photo by Neal Santos
The first time I went to Scott Schroeder’s new restaurant, Hungry Pigeon, I showed up for breakfast and liked it so much, I stayed for lunch. There was just something so … welcoming about the place. Comfortable. It felt cool without even trying (which, I suppose, is the essence of cool), and as though it had been living there forever, in its little corner on Fabric Row, rather than for just a few weeks: the pale wood, the tarnished and mismatched silver wrapped in a side towel on the counter, the birdcages everywhere. It just worked in a lo-fi, garage-sale kind of way that rich restaurateurs pay tens of thousands of dollars to try to mimic.
It didn’t hurt that I am, by nature, a lazy man and relished the excuse to just hang out there for a couple hours, scrunched up in a corner banquette seat, sipping tea and eating Schroeder’s one-punch takedown of the Egg McMuffins of our collective youth. His version is assembled from a house-made English muffin toasted on the flat grill, an egg done just tight enough to hold together as part of a sandwich, local jack cheese and, variously, bacon, ham, or chicken sausage—the latter being the perfect accompaniment unless you’re into scrapple, in which case the scrapple is even better.
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UPDATE: We’ve got the full menu now, so check it out after the jump.
Granted, it’s going to be a little late for the official festivities, but if Sunday comes and you still haven’t gotten all the St. Patrick’s Day out of your system, there’s this: A brunch, being organized and prepared by BFFs Scott Schroeder (Hungry Pigeon, etc.) and Jason Cichonski at Cichonski’s restaurant Ela. It’s happening on Sunday from 10:30am until 2:30pm, and they’re calling it the “St. Patrick’s Day Whiskey And Waffles Brunch” so there will presumably be both whiskey and waffles.
Also, this is like the third time the duo have done an event like this together, and yeah. There was plenty of whiskey before. And waffles.
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The Hungry Pigeon is now open | Photo by Scott Charles Schroeder III
Scott Schroeder and Pat O’Malley quietly opened their Hungry Pigeon for dinner service last week. And now they’re officially open as an all-day eatery.
The menu starts out with a lengthy coffee service with offerings that go far beyond latte and mocha. A savory breakfast menu is served weekdays with O’Malley’s specialty, a selection of pastries. On weekends the breakfast and pastry options expand to include a short rib hash, French toast and a bread basket. Lunchtime offers salads, sandwiches, burgers and a selection of vegan sides. At dinner, Hungry Pigeon’s menu ranges from the small pan roasted pigeon to the large one pound pot roast.
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How close is Hungry Pigeon? So close.
On Wednesday night, the night before the night before Christmas, Scott Schroeder and his Hungy Pigeon staff will be stirring at the Garage on East Passyunk. The ohsoclosetoopening restaurant (hopefully today’s inspections will be passed) will be offering a preview at the Garage starting at 6 p.m. There will be beer cocktails and food including “Christmas Pig Tacos” and marinated squash salad.
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The July issue of Philadelphia magazine is all about selfies. Particularly, Philadelphians taking photos of themselves. Check out the local food and drink pros who obliged with their candid shots.
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Pat O’Malley and Scott Schroeder | Photo by Neal Santos
In a project that has managed to stay rather quiet since being presented at a neighborhood meeting last year, the cat (or bird) is finally out of the bag. Hungry Pigeon is a European-style cafe coming to 743 S 4th Street, on Fabric Row in Queen Village. South Philadelphia Taproom/American Sardine Bar chef Scott Schroeder is behind the project with his longtime friend Patrick O’Malley. O’Malley comes back to Philadelphia from New York’s Balthazar Bakery. Schroeder and O’Malley’s friendship goes back to when the both of them worked at ¡Pasion! with chef Guillermo Pernot. Despite moving to New York, the two would occasionally do collaboration dinners at SPTR, including one feast I was lucky enough to be at with along with chefs Nick Macri and Gene Giuffi.
Hungry Pigeon will be a coffee shop by morning, a lunch spot in the afternoon, and at night, the lights will dim for dinner with beer, wine and cocktails.
Hungry Pigeon events this summer »
Check out what the impressive lineup of events that are happening Upstairs at Vetri this June. He’s got local personalities like Peter McAndrews (Monsu, Modo Mio, Paesano’s), Scott Schroeder (American Sardine Bar, South Philadelphia Taproom), Lê from Hop Sing Laundromat and Emilio Mignucci of Di Bruno Bros. on the docket. And then he also has 2012 James Beard Award winner Mindy Seagal talks cookies and of course Marc Vetri himself teaching about pasta.
Check out the full list on Vetri’s web site.