Trey Popp gives us two reviews in one as he visits the “weirdos” behind Pizza Brain and Little Baby’s Ice Cream.
I’ve got a severe hype allergy. But Brian Dwyer and Joseph Hunter’s partly Kickstarter-funded brainchild—which shares space, and a cockeyed ethos, with Little Baby’s Ice Cream—had me on an EpiPen high by the time I was chasing a rosemary-scented mushroom/fontina/goat cheese pizza with dense scoops of chipotle chocolate and Earl Grey sriracha ice cream.
How did it happen? Well for one thing, nothing neutralizes a rambunctious preschooler like knickknack-crammed plexiglass display boxes. For another, this is inventive and frequently terrific pizza.
First, a confession. I don’t watch the Today show or CBS This Morning—nor do I read Qantas in-flight magazine or Jeopardy’s Twitter feed—so by the time I walked into Pizza Brain, I didn’t fully appreciate just how many people had beaten me to it. I mean, Malaysian Insider? Nigeria News? That’s a lot of press for a six-table pie joint in Fishtown.
Yelp users can check in to businesses with their smart phones and become regulars, dukes, duchesses and even the baron of a neighborhood. These titles don’t get you much in real life, but checking into the following businesses provides real deals.
Craig LaBan reviews Pizza Brain on on Frankford Avenue in Fishtown. Fresh ingredients and balanced flavors furnish the Guinness World Recorded pizza museum/shop with two bells.
But while there are certainly more exquisite and inventive pizzas in town, Dwyer and partners Ryan Anderson, Mike Carter, and chef Joe Hunter have done a surprisingly respectable job of spinning some worthy variations on the classic crispy American genre. No puffy, personal Neapolitan pies here. This dough, created by sous chef Austin Adams, is touched by the DNA of sourdough starter and delivers personality.
And while the toppings don’t always quite match the zaniness of the pizzas’ names (most culled from Dwyer’s days as a young data-entry Dilbert), they highlight good ingredients and a fine sense of balance.