When Cameron Mitchell’s steak-and-seafood emporium Ocean Prime debuted in Philadelphia in September, local gossip/photographer/blogger HughE Dillon posted on Facebook about the opening party, writing that the restaurant “must have a lot of confidence in their food” because “they comp’d 500 dinners.” I found that a bit odd, since comping 500 dinners might suggest the opposite. In any event, Dillon added that “the food was delicious.” But that was not my experience on Wednesday night. Read more »
With scaled-down ambitions and pumped up flavors, John Mims comes back to Narbeth. But is this homecoming what he really wants?
The best place to be is the four=seat kitchen bar, where you can watch [Mims] lob giant knuckles of butter into fry pans already thick with seafood and his tomato-bombed Creole stock, or smother andouille sausage and duck meat with glistening lumps of braised pork shoulder–and top that with bacon gravy.
Two-and-a-half Stars — Very Good
Philadelphia Restaurant Review: Carmine’s Creole Café Act II Turns It Up to 11 [Philadelphia magazine]
This is not an oversight. Mims, a New Orleans native who has worked more or less his whole life in restaurants, has sense enough to keep some things between himself and his refrigerator. But if you were to sneak into the walk-in at his Narberth BYOB—located in the exact same digs he left in 2006—you’d see the containers that conceal the soul of this restaurant. They’re the ones labeled SWAMP WATER.
In a city thoroughly accustomed to restaurant turnover, it takes a lot for a renovation to stir up nostalgia. Even the final dismantling of Le Bec-Fin this summer drew a collective yawn from a large portion of the city’s foodies. But the dignified former showroom of florist H.H. Battles on South 12th Street is another story. Read more »
You make your way to Peter Serpico’s new home on South Street, among the head shops and tattoo parlors and neon entreaties for the purchase of gold, in a state of mounting wonder about what sort of restaurant Stephen Starr lured the Beard-honored Momofuku lieutenant to this particular corner to run.
Down from the anarchist bookstore and past Atomic Comics, you slip through a tinted glass door into a darkly radiant box. A stainless steel kitchen glimmers within the glossy skirt of a deeply stained wood bar. Black slate walls cast a sexy mood beneath a band of blond bricks glowing with straw-colored light. And your question resists a straightforward answer.