Stephen Starr alum Chris Painter, who worked at Tangerine and opened Angelina’s is back in the kitchen, this time in South Jersey’s Kitchen 233. Craig LaBan takes a look at this admittedly expensive Mediterranean restaurant and finds that yes, $18 is a fair price for the shrimp and lobster frites appetizer.
Sticker shock aside, they’re well on their way with Kitchen 233. I don’t love the decor – so completely covered in monochrome chocolate-brown wood, it has a generic coolness rather than the intended tavern warmth. But thanks to some top-notch cooking from ex-Tangerine chef Chris Painter, and a 350-label cellar that is impressive in its breadth and quality – with most glasses priced between $5 and $15 – the old pizza shop has been transformed into one of the most ambitious new restaurants South Jersey has seen in some time.
Two Bells – Very Good