Put down that Dutch Cookery book, Joncarl!
I had dinner at Noord last night on East Passyunk Avenue, but before I left I made sure to bend Chef / owner Joncarl Lachman’s ear about what he has planned for his new location in the Italian Market.
First things first: They’re deciding between two names: Bistro Neuf or Restaurant Neuf. The name Neuf, because “neuf” means 9 in French and the restaurant is on 9th Street—in the former location of Argentinian steakhouse 943.
The menu will be North African with French influences. I’m told to expect hearty Moroccan tajines (yes, some with pigeon), braised meats and even bouillabaisse.
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Although BigBite Philly missed an opportunity for some great wordplay (the Philli Chili bowl would have been great), we’re still pretty excited about the 6th Annual Philly Chili Bowl on Saturday, March 14.
So why are we talking about this so early? Because we love chili, that’s why. But also because they’re still taking team entries into the competition.
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Most Tuesdays, we feature a recently wed Philadelphia-area LGBT couple. Today: the adorable Joncarl Lachman and Bob Moysan, who got married last night on East Passyunk Avenue. Joncarl is the owner and head chef of Noord, the fantastic Dutch restaurant on East Passyunk that G Philly named Best BYOB in 2013.
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Noord’s brunch menu is usually supplemented by weekly specials you probably won’t find on another brunch menu in Philly—like Zurkool & Eggs (beer-braised cabbage, smoked sausage and eggs) or Whole Trout Amandine. But usually, those specials include a frittata, and Joncarl loves frittatas.
This recipe can be done with any sort of seasonal vegetable (you can get your ingredients at any of these places), and you’ll be able to impress your brunch friends before you go out on the water for the day.
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Joncarl Lachman’s NOORD is turning one-year-old and is celebrating by adding brunch to the popular East Passyunk BYOB’s menu. The menu features a section of hashes including 12-hour braised brisket and Kabritu Stoba, made with Netherland Antilles braised goat. The menu also offers a selection of three-egg omelets that include green apple, sharp cheddar and bacon as well as a spiced crabmeat omelet with braised leeks and dill sour cream. Looking for something sweet, try the deep-fried French Toast.
And since NOORD is a BYOB, Lachman is offering a couple of “Virgin Mary” mixes for those bringing their own vodka. The Hollander is served with pickled herring and cucumber while the Zeelander served with a smoked prawn and pickles.
Brunch kicks off on Mother’s Day, May 11th and will be offered every Sunday from 10 a.m. to 2 p.m. Reservations are accepted.
The full brunch menu at NOORD »
The second annual East Passyunk Restaurant Week will run from Sunday, February 23rd through March 1st, 2014. The week of restaurant deals will include Noord’s Joncarl Lachman and Laurel’s Nicholas Elmi for the first time.
Twenty-four restaurants will participate in total, offering brunch, lunch and dinner menus for $15, $25 and $35. Look for specific menus to start being announced on the official web site on January 29th. Reservations are now being announced.
The participating restaurants »
Illustration by Alex Fine
What makes Philadelphia different from the other big restaurant cities, like New York or Chicago?
Joncarl Lachman, Noord: “I lived in both of those other cities and cooked in both, so I’ll be talking from real experience. There’s a camaraderie that exists in Philly that doesn’t exist in other cities like Chicago and New York. Not just between restaurants and the people, but between chefs and the other restaurants. Maybe it’s the size of the city combined with the Philly personalities, but it doesn’t quite exist anywhere else that I’ve worked.”
The January, 2014 issue of Philadelphia magazine is devoted to food. The issue serves up frequently asked questions and insightful answers about Philadelphia’s food scene. Check out the sneak peek online, it includes answers from Peter Serpico, Anne Coll, Scott Schroeder, Joncarl Lachman and others.
Look for the full issue hitting newsstands next week.
A Matter of Taste [Philadelphia Magazine]
Noord has achieved its fair share of positive reviews throughout the spring and summer but there’s no doubt that the Dutch/Nordic cuisine of the Passyunk BYOB is going to be best suited for cooler months. Here’s a look at chef Joncarl Lachman’s first fall menu, it’s all about the snert! Not really, it’s just that we love saying snert.
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Before he opened Noord, Joncarl Lachman shared a draft of his menu with a chef friend in New York to get an outside opinion. The feedback he received wasn’t exactly a huge surprise. “She told me I needed to take some of the mustard off,” he told me back in July, laughing.
Hard as it may be to imagine—considering an opening menu packed with dishes like mustard-laced pork balls, scallops in mustard soup, and trout with mustard three ways—Lachman actually followed her advice. Noord is actually less mustardy than he originally envisioned.
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Trey Popp dines at Johncarl Lachman’s Noord. He finds that the East Passyunk BYOB is more Dutch than Scandinavian but worth the visit nonetheless.
Pickled and smoked fish are the standouts. Lachman’s broodje haring is mercifully restrained: He leaves the aggressive funkiness of the genuine article in Amsterdam and brings to Philly a light pickling liquid that’s longer on wine and water. From this, the Icelandic herring fillets he was getting in early summer emerged with a sprightly tang that was an ideal answer to the heat wave. There was also wet-smoked salmon, velvety and rich, and lean smoked trout—part of a trio of open-faced fish sandwiches showered with tiny carrot crisps.
Two-and-a-half stars – Good to Excellent
Philadelphia Restaurant Review: Noord’s Northern European Homeyness [Philadelphia Magazine]
Noord [Official Site]
Photo by Courtney Apple