What Comes After Brunch?

Smoked Scallops | Photo by Courtney Apple

Smoked Scallops | Photo by Courtney Apple

Trey Popp finds that Jerry’s Bar is a great and reasonable place to drink, the food’s not bad either.

And come back on Sunday morning. My favorite dish at Jerry’s was a special that paired cured smoked scallops with springy polenta—an enthralling alternative to the now-ubiquitous shrimp and grits.

Two Stars – Good

Restaurant Review: Jerry’s Bar [Philadelphia Magazine]
Jerry’s Bar [Foobooz]

Restaurant Review: Jerry’s Bar

Jerry's Burger. Photography by Courtney Apple

Jerry’s Burger. Photography by Courtney Apple.

“Brunch is punishment,” Anthony Bourdain famously wrote. “Nothing makes an aspiring Escoffier feel more like an army commissary cook, or Mel from Mel’s Diner, than having to slop out eggs over easy with bacon and eggs Benedict for the Sunday brunch crowd.”

That’s never how Marshall Green made it feel at Café Estelle, which must have been responsible for 85 percent of the weekend traffic on North 4th Street for the five years he slung the best shirred eggs in town, among other favorites, at that widely adored spot. But there’s nothing like 1,500 early mornings to drive a man to drink—or at least to a place fitted out with a well-stocked bar.

Jerry’s Bar, where Green landed last May, has two of them. A long slab of marble salvaged from Independence Mall is the center of gravity downstairs, and a dark wooden barroom evokes an unbuttoned Ivy League clubroom on the mezzanine.

Read more »

Jerry’s Bar: Gastropub of the Year

jerrys-bloody-mary

Craig LaBan has plenty of praise for the brunch menu from breakfast savant, Marshall Green at Jerry’s Bar. But LaBan also reminds us that Green’s talents don’t disappear after noon.

Jerry’s menu is also an opportunity for Green, who also worked at Django, Ansill, and Meritage, to remind us of some other moves. Many of them are simply bistro classics rendered with attention to detail, like the soulfully rich French onion soup gratineed beneath a molten Gruyère lid, or a steel crock of oregano-scented meatballs in bright tomato ragu. Tender snails come with an inspired summer touch of Pernod, corn, and sweet crab, which adds an unexpectedly pleasant aquatic edge. Pureed corn soup gets a brilliant, boozy echo from a shot of bourbon corn liquor. Plump chicken wings rise above bar cliche with a distinct pickle brine and a sambal chili glaze with satay peanut dip I’m craving.

Two Bells – Very Good

Jerry’s Bar: Shot-and-a-beer hangout turn fine gastropub [Philadelphia Inquirer]
Jerry’s Bar [Official Site]

Jerry’s Bar in Northern Liberties Opens

 

JerrysBar_46Jerry’s Bar in Northern Liberties opened over the weekend for dinner. Chef Marshall Green formerly of Cafe Estelle is in the kitchen. Green is known for his great brunch, which will be served at Jerry’s on Saturday and Sunday from 10 a.m. until 3 p.m. starting in June. The highlights of the brunch menu include a cream cheese walnut sticky bun, multiple types of pancakes, French toast, steak and eggs, a brunch burger and a falafel and hummus sandwich.

Dinner at Jerry’s is served daily from 5 p.m. until 1 a.m. with dishes like smoked trout salad, wings, meatballs and toast, escargots, a fried haddock sandwich, steak frites, and potato gnocchi.

Jerry’s Bar is the same name and location as one of Northern Liberties last dive bars but you’ll be hard-pressed to find much of that bar in the updated version.

Jerry’s Bar [Official Site]

 

Northern Liberties’ Diviest Dive Bar To Close

Even if you’ve been to Northern Liberties a hundred times, you’ve probably never ventured into Jerry’s Bar, a smoky, dingy but generally very friendly Ukrainian dive on Laurel Street, right around the corner from the Standard Tap and Piazza. Jerry’s has been around and in the same family since James Tate sat in the Mayor’s Office, and prices don’t seem to have changed all that drastically. Back in the days when I-95 was being built, workers would drop down ladders from the under-construction overpass to get to Jerry’s for a cheap lunch, though there’s no food (unless packs of Chicken In A Biskit count) these days. But you can still get a beer for $2 and shots for a buck.

But if local masonry contractor Bill Proud has his way, Jerry’s is about to go the way of the gastropub, leaving Northern Liberties without its diviest (by far) of dives, just in time for the ominous sounding $1,000-a-year pool club being built up the street.

Read more »