Last week, we told you High Street on Market made Bon Appetit’s short list of the 50 best new restaurants in the United States, along with South Street’s Serpico. Today the top ten list came out and High Street is number two. The magazine’s Andrew Knowlton calls out head baker Alex Bois in particular.
I dare anyone who has jumped on the gluten-free bandwagon (without a doctor’s note) to eat at High Street on Market and still call himself gluten-intolerant. You don’t stand a chance. Know why? Because chef Eli Kulp basically built this restaurant around head baker Alex Bois’s superstar bread program.
UPDATE: And hey, there’s a video, too! All about Kulp, High Street, Alex Bois and the bread program. Check it out after the jump.
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This morning, Bon Appetit released their big list of the 50 Best New Restaurants In America. And man, it is one hell of a list. We’re talking Blackbird Chinese in Miami, Lusca and Kevin Gillespie’s Gunshow in Atlanta, Hot Joy in San Antonio, Chicago’s Mott Street, Odd Duck in Austin, Q in L.A., and so many more.
Philly made a game of it, too, with not just one of our best tagged by Andrew Knowlton and his team, but two–Eli Kulp’s High Street On Market and Peter Serpico’s Serpico on South Street. You guys can all start arguing now about whether or not these are the two best new restaurants that have opened in Philly in the past year, who should’ve really gotten the nod and whether its weird that both of our nominees came to our fair city from New York, but I think we can all agree that High Street and Serpico are certainly among the best of a strong crop.
This list of 50 will be winnowed down to 10 big winners over the next couple weeks. But you can check out the full list/slideshow right now over at Bon Appetit and start arranging your bucket list for the next year.
America’s 50 Best New Restaurants [Bon Ap]
The 11th Center City Fall Restaurant Week has set a date and added some new restaurants to the mix. For two weeks – September 7th to the 12th and September 14th to the 19th – enjoy some of Center City’s popular dining destinations at discounted prices. The deal remains the same, $35 for dinner and $20 for restaurants participating during lunch.
Newbies on the list are Cook & Solo’s newest restaurant Abe Fisher, which will feature Jewish diaspora cuisine; 4 Fathers; Bank & Bourbon for your traditional American fare fixin’; Chops; Foobooz approved Entrée BYOB; High Street on Market; Mixto to satisfy your Cuban cravings; Society Hill Society and Stella Rossa.
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You grew up in Mossyrock, Washington. Is that a town of more or less than 100 people? Ha. Last time I saw, it had 498. My mom is from Holland; my dad is from New York. And they were sort of hippies traveling in the ’70s, doing their thing. They met and found this little plot of land in the middle of nowhere and bought it, put a single-wide trailer on it, and that’s where I grew up.
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Sometimes when we say “friends and family” we mean “a group of people to whom we are related and/or acquainted and with whom we will be expected to make polite conversation.” Other times we mean actual friends and family. You know who yours are. Actual friends/family have actually seen us at our actual worst. Our worst haircuts, our worst fashion decisions, and the worst culminations of our worst decision making.
I’m not sure which of the two High Street on Market is aiming for with their weekly Tuesday night “friends and family” dinner series, but I will say that the food at this 9:30pm evening meal is far better than that at most family functions, and the price just can’t be beat.
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You don’t have to be in the restaurant industry to appreciate what chef Eli Kulp and his team are doing on “Friends & Family” Tuesdays over at High Street on Market. Kulp is transforming what is normally a quiet evening for restaurants through collaboration with local farms and bloggers in a series of dinners that are as informative as they are delicious.
The format started with a series of cheese dinners featuring local cheesemakers curated by blogger Tenaya Darlington, alias Madame Fromage. Next up was fermentation blogger Amanda Feifer, from Phickle, and a series of dinners (one of which is left, by the way, on June 17th) focusing on fermentation as a means of transforming and preserving foods in cuisines from Eastern Europe and Russia, East Asia and South Asia.
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Okay, so at a certain point someone is going to have to go after chef Eli Kulp with a tranquilizer gun just to get him to slow down a little. He already has like nine different menus working between Fork and High Street on Market, he’s overseeing A.Kitchen and A.Bar and doing events like Franklin Flea and Taste of the Nation. But that’s apparently not enough for him. Because he also does special Friends and Family dinners on Tuesday nights at High Street, which are continuing throughout the spring.
For example, on Tuesday, April 22 he’ll be doing a dinner with Phickle’s Amanda Feifer which will continue their Fermentation Series celebrating all things fermented–from coffee and chocolate to cheese and yogurt, beer and wine to pickles and kim chi. (Other dates include Tuesday, May 13 and Tuesday, June 17.) And on Tuesday, May 6, it’ll be a cheese dinner with Valley Shepherd Creamery, with cheesemaker Jaenine Dargis and some of her 30+ Basque-influenced cheeses. All the dinners start at 9pm and are just $25 per person (plus booze, tax and tip).
But wait, there’s more…
Philly Wine Week hits day three and the events are heating up.
If you thought Marnie Old’s pairing class for industry professionals sounded cool yesterday, she’s repeating it for consumers tonight at the German Society of Pennsylvania.
Osteria is hosting Sue Miller of Birchrun Hill Farms and they’ll be pairing wine and cheese for happy hour.
More Philly Wine Week events »
In my recent review of High Street on Market, I wrote that brunch there set my spouse on a “tirade” charging the restaurant with “Brooklynizing Philadelphia comfort food” via its “inhospitality to non-foodies” at that tender hour.
Later, Eater posted a summary of my review, remarking: “Oh, what we wouldn’t give to read a full companion review by Popp’s wife.”
Which made me laugh out loud, because I’d actually tried—fruitlessly—to get her to write one.
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Eli Kulp at High Street on Market | Photo by Jason Varney
Trey Popp thoroughly enjoys High Street on Market, Eli Kulp’s follow-up to Fork.
Kulp likes to say that if Fork is “one step left of the mainstream,” High Street is meant to be another step or two to the left of that. Even some of the simplest things on offer here push the envelope on farm-to-table fare—which, let’s face it, has been sorely in need of a little pushing for a while now.
One of my favorites was a bowl of flash-fried broccoli florets battered with such a thin coating of rice flour that the resulting shell was barely visible, then tossed with a “chowchow” subjected to a lacto-fermentation that bent the tangy relish halfway toward spicy kimchi. Think tempura toned down from flavor-dominating crunch to tongue-tickling crackle, with a condiment kicked up from one-note quick-pickle to a full chord of funk.
Three Stars – Excellent
Restaurant Review: High Street on Market [Philadelphia Magazine]
High Street on Market [Foobooz]