High Street Doing More Friends And Family Dinners (Plus Bonus Night Market News)

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Okay, so at a certain point someone is going to have to go after chef Eli Kulp with a tranquilizer gun just to get him to slow down a little. He already has like nine different menus working between Fork and High Street on Market, he’s overseeing A.Kitchen and A.Bar and doing events like Franklin Flea and Taste of the Nation. But that’s apparently not enough for him. Because he also does special Friends and Family dinners on Tuesday nights at High Street, which are continuing throughout the spring.

For example, on Tuesday, April 22 he’ll be doing a dinner with Phickle’s Amanda Feifer which will continue their Fermentation Series celebrating all things fermented–from coffee and chocolate to cheese and yogurt, beer and wine to pickles and kim chi. (Other dates include Tuesday, May 13 and Tuesday, June 17.) And on Tuesday, May 6, it’ll be a cheese dinner with Valley Shepherd Creamery, with cheesemaker Jaenine Dargis and some of her 30+ Basque-influenced cheeses. All the dinners start at 9pm and are just $25 per person (plus booze, tax and tip).

But wait, there’s more…

A Second Look At High Street On Market’s Brunch

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In my recent review of High Street on Market, I wrote that brunch there set my spouse on a “tirade” charging the restaurant with “Brooklynizing Philadelphia comfort food” via its “inhospitality to non-foodies” at that tender hour.

Later, Eater posted a summary of my review, remarking: “Oh, what we wouldn’t give to read a full companion review by Popp’s wife.”

Which made me laugh out loud, because I’d actually tried—fruitlessly—to get her to write one.

Read more »

Living in Left Field: High Street on Market Reviewed

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Eli Kulp at High Street on Market | Photo by Jason Varney

Trey Popp thoroughly enjoys High Street on Market, Eli Kulp’s follow-up to Fork.

Kulp likes to say that if Fork is “one step left of the mainstream,” High Street is meant to be another step or two to the left of that. Even some of the simplest things on offer here push the envelope on farm-to-table fare—which, let’s face it, has been sorely in need of a little pushing for a while now.

One of my favorites was a bowl of flash-fried broccoli florets battered with such a thin coating of rice flour that the resulting shell was barely visible, then tossed with a “chowchow” subjected to a lacto-fermentation that bent the tangy relish halfway toward spicy kimchi. Think tempura toned down from flavor-dominating crunch to tongue-tickling crackle, with a condiment kicked up from one-note quick-pickle to a full chord of funk.

Three Stars – Excellent

Restaurant Review: High Street on Market [Philadelphia Magazine]
High Street on Market [Foobooz]

Philadelphia Restaurant Review: High Street On Market

High Street on Market Review

Mushrooms Sandwich. Photography by Jason Varney.

IT’S SELDOM A GOOD IDEA to boil down a restaurant recommendation to a tweet-size paragraph, but for prospective visitors to High Street on Market, a short questionnaire might be in order.

Do you go for broccoli rabe? What if it’s fermented? How about juiced and given a leading role in a mezcal cocktail?

If you answered yes to all of those questions, congratulations: You’ve clearly gotten your money’s worth out of your Vitamix! And now Eli Kulp, who made Fork required dining for serious eaters in 2013, has given it a next-door neighbor where you can quench your appetite for left-field gastronomy from breakfast straight through dinner.
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High Street on Market’s Broccoli Rabe Cocktail Gets Attention

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Photo by Drew Lazor

It’s not a cocktail for everyone. The Inquirer’s Craig LaBan said of High Street on Market’s broccoli rabe cocktail, it could ”grow chest hair on a kale martini” but food writer Drew Lazor appears to be a fan. Lazor writes up the cocktail for Serious Eats’ drink blog.

So This Exists: A Broccoli Rabe Cocktail at High Street on Market, in Philadelphia [Serious Eats]
High Street on Market [Foobooz]

Three Bells for High Street on Market

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Craig LaBan is wowed from bread to cocktails at High Street on Market. And he’s similarly impressed by dinner, especially the dishes that are products of the kitchen’s obsession with fermentation.

A kimchi-style fermented parsley-mint vinaigrette adds punchy spark to the richly marbled Wagyu short rib, served as an irresistible sharing platter with a salad of roasted Brussels sprouts and crispy tater-tot-shaped rice cakes.

That rib was the best piece of beef I’ve eaten in months – and one of several unusual ingredients Kulp revels in serving. Another was a huge pork shank, a sharing entree served over a wooden bowl of cracked-corn porridge scattered with crumbles of liver sausage ragu. The cider-braised mallet of meat was so yielding, it shimmered with juice at the touch of a fork, then fell apart.

Three Bells – Excellent

High Street on Market: Veggie-focused, ambitious, bold cafe at former Fork Etc. [Philadelphia Inquirer]
High Street on Market [Foobooz]

One of Adam Erace’s Best Meals of 2013

Photo by Neal Santos, City Paper

Photo by Neal Santos, City Paper

Adam Erace recognizes that the talent at High Street on Market goes behind Fork frontman Eli Kulp. Baker Alexandre Bois has turned High Street into the best bakery in town. A second dinner at the Market Street sibling of Fork had Erace crowing about one of his best meals of the year.

High Street on Market is Bready for Its Closeup [City Paper]
High Street on Market
 [Foobooz]

Craig LaBan’s Year in Bells

Photo by Jim Graham

Photo by Jim Graham

Craig LaBan’s Year in Bells came out last weekend. The annual feature includes some revisits to restaurants reviewed earlier and the announcement of a Chef of the Year award.

The Saint James in Ardmore, which was skewered a year ago in its initial review has now been upgraded to a single bell (hit-or-miss). Citron & Rose, which lost its partnership with Michael Solomonov and his Zahav team maintained its two-bells, based on the strength of new chef, Karen Nicolas.

Tiffin Bistro and Red Owl Tavern rounded out the revisites. Each managed to hang on to their one bell ratings but frankly, each sounded lucky to have done so.

Chef Eli Kulp, who came to Fork and High Street on Market from New York’s Torrisi Italian Specialties was named Chef of the Year. LaBan said of Kulp’s cooking, ”his knack for unexpected combos and rustic techniques (offbeat pastas, fermenting, charcuterie) produced grand presentations like his whole-duck feast – a multi-part poultry masterpiece that was among the best birds (and meatballs) I’ve ever eaten.”

Craig LaBan’s Year in Bells [Philadelphia Inquirer]

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