Two Bells for the Good King Tavern

lights-good-king-tavern-400Craig LaBan finds that the Good King Tavern does a heck of a job channeling Southern France, even if chef Paul Lyons might be better served by honing his menu than expanding it with specials.

“Eggplant “3 ways,” though, was my favorite, a multi-technique display that didn’t forget to showcase the ingredient. Baby eggplants were tenderly cooked sous-vide before a finishing pan char. Pickled cubes of eggplant added tangy little bursts. And a silky “eggplant caviar” puree at the base of this colorful medley (which also crunched with shaved raw sunchokes and purple rounds of watermelon radish) had a Mediterranean richness and a sneaky prickle of spicy heat.”

Two Bells – Very Good

A taste of Southern France in South Philly [Philadelphia Inquirer]
The Good King Tavern [Foobooz]

Where We’re Eating: The Good King Tavern

the-good-king-tavern-philadelphia-squareThe neighborhood let out a collective groan when, over the summer, Chick’s announced that it was closing. But the good news came with its replacement, The Good King Tavern—this excellent little brasserie with chef Paul Lyons (a graduate of Barbuzzo and Jamonera) in the kitchen. Fans of Chick’s cocktail program will be pleased to know that the list here features drinks like the Sazerac, Aviation and French 75, and there’s a wine list filled with relative bargains. Lyons’s menu is small and unambitious, but that’s okay. The octopus will make you forget about neighboring Dmitri’s, and the substantial $15 steak frites is understandably an early hit. And when your server tries to sell you on the crispy chickpea flatbread as a starter, just say yes. 

The Good King Tavern [Foobooz]

First appeared in the February, 2014 issue of Philadelphia magazine.

New Life for the Old Chick’s Social

goodking.jpg

Over on the Insider, they’re reporting that the former home of Chick’s Social is going French.

Father and daughter team, Bernard and Chloe Grigri, are moving in, renaming the place The Good King Tavern, and hoping to open in October with an Alsatian tavern menu and feel. One very interesting thing they have going for them? Their chef, Paul Lyons. He was chef de cuisine at Barbuzzo and Jamonera, then jumped over to Morgan’s Pier to work as c-de-c for his buddy George Sabatino.

The Good King Tavern Replacing Chick’s [Insider]