Trey Popp finds much of Goat Hollow to be hit-or-miss but he still seems to like it.
This warm and unassuming spot has enough going for it to balance out its middling ambitions and occasional flops. After all, there’s a time for fennel-pollen mortadella and vinegar-shrub cocktails, and there’s a time for a solid bowl of mussels, a top-notch beer list, and a heaping $6 kid’s plate of orecchiette bolognese. Because above all, a neighborhood spot should know how to take care of the neighbors, and Neil Campbell’s second restaurant (after Old City’s Race Street Cafe) has the knack.
Two Stars – Good
Philadelphia Restaurant Review: Hit-or-Miss Charm at Goat Hollow [Philadelphia Magazine]
Goat Hollow [Official Site]
There are honest waiters, there are fatally honest waiters, and then there’s the guy who asked if we wanted dessert at Goat Hollow.
“We have chocolate mousse, an apple crisp, bread pudding and crème brûlée,” he said on a busy Sunday night at Mount Airy’s fledgling brasserie.
“Oh!” one of us replied, face brightening. “What kind of bread pudding is it?” Because they’re always fancied up somehow these days, aren’t they? Chocolate brioche, banana bourbon, Nutella cinnamon challah … You never know how many adjectives a chef is going to try to cram in there.
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Adam Erace visited Goat Hollow,the recently revived Mount Airy brasserie, and comes away impressed by the bar and underwhelmed by the kitchen.
Dumplings plumped with pickled pork belly sounded promising, and Glickman indeed pickles the meat before braising it in the pickling liquid to underscore the sour note that rockets through the stuffing of pork, daikon, cabbage and shiitake. But they’re made in big batches and frozen ahead of time, seared on each side to order then steamed, a process that’s torture on the pot stickers’ texture. They arrived so thoroughly caramelized it appeared they’d actually stuck to the pot, and yet instead of the tooth-breaker crunch I expected, I got dumplings limp and gummy as members of a nursing-home bridge club. Not helping was the soy-based dipping sauce, so salty I might as well have driven down the Shore to dunk the dumplings in the Atlantic.
Surely the mussels would be better, considering Glickman spent nine years steaming moules at Monk’s, and the bowl of fat bivalves basking in coconut milk dyed jade by mild house-ground “Greene” curry paste was better. However, the “Durham” mussels — each of the five styles is named for a different Mount Airy street — drew little flavor from their broth: a Caprese-salad soup of white wine, chopped tomatoes, basil and diced mozzarella. Either the cheese had melted into the hot liquid, or a line cook had forgotten to add it. Skinny, crisp frites accompany, as does a roll, redundantly.
Bar Hits and Kitchen Misses at Mount Airy’s Goat Hollow [City Paper]
Goat Hollow [Official Site]
Goat Hollow is the bar you want, in the neighborhood you want. Mount Airy is known for its diversity, with black, white, young, old, rich and otherwise, all seeming to get along better than anywhere else in Philadelphia. On a busy Wednesday night, a middle-aged black couple enjoys some wine and entrées, an elderly couple gets leftover salad boxed to go, and a group of young professionals debates California IPA vs. American Brown Ale. The other end of the bar is held down by off-duty Philadelphia firemen unwinding.
I score a bar seat, select the Sorachi Ace from the list of 20 taps, and get to ordering. First up, the Goat Hollow mussels with tasso ham, caramelized onions and wit beer, prepared well, with good spice from the tasso and plump, clean mussels. Just the kind of thing you would expect from chef Adam Glickman, who made his mark at Monk’s Cafe. One of the burgers was reminiscent of Monk’s as well, prepared to a perfect medium rare and topped with drunken mushrooms and melted gruyère. Another beer or three were ordered, because who would be in a rush to leave such a warm, welcoming place?
300 West Mount Pleasant Avenue
First appeared in the April 2013 edition of Philadelphia magazine
Mount Airy’s recently re-opened Goat Hollow is now offering brunch and chef Adam Glickman, an ex-Monk’s Cafe compatriot, has created the menu (available Saturdays and Sundays, 10:30 a.m.- 3 p.m.). Think cold-smoked Cowboy Ribeye with three eggs any style, Herb-Fried Chicken & Waffles, and Eggs Benedict with a house-cured tasso ham, grilled vegetables, filet mignon or cured salmon option.
That’s not the only thing expanding on their menu—they’ve got some drinks too. Seven new artisan cocktails created by manager Kate Stewart, and a whole Bloody Mary Bar designed by head bartender Nick Petrysxyn that includes three types of mix – Chipotle, Clamato and Classic, with all the fixin’s: blue cheese-stuffed olives, pickled green beans, kimchi, and golden peppadews.
Filet Mignon Eggs Benedict with a Chipotle Bloody Mary garnished with kimchi? Sick.
Goat Hollow – [Official]
On Monday, January 21, Neil Campbell, owner of Old City’s Race Street Café, and business partner Andy Shahan will open Mt. Airy’s historic Goat Hollow. Goat Hollow is the same name as the neighborhood restaurant that closed in the same location eight years ago. The renovated space will offer American brasserie food for lunch and dinner, alongside a craft beer and artisan cocktails.
More on Goat Hollow »
Neil Campbell, owner of Old City’s Race Street Cafe and his business partner, Andy Shahan are preparing to open Mount Airy’s Goat Hollow this month. The name, which is a historic name for the neighborhood was also the name of a former establishment at the location, which closed eight years ago.
The space has been extensively renovated with the help of local businesses, Metcalfe Architecture and Design, Philadelphia Salvage, Fillippi Bros., Inc. and Design Nehez. The restaurant will have a liquor license and serve craft beer and cocktails including including house-infused liquors and syrups.
A familiar name in the kitchen »