Restaurant Review: Crow & the Pitcher

Crow & the Pitcher | Jason Varney

Crow & the Pitcher | Jason Varney

For food-obsessed Philadelphians, the first half of August unfolded like a rigged game of Two Truths and a Lie. In case you were down the Shore, let’s play. Pick the fib: The Ritz-Carlton turned over 10 Arts to a barbecue pit-master for a night; chef-cum-doughnut mogul Michael Solomonov came out in the New York Times as a self-described “crackhead” during Zahav’s early days; and Georges Perrier did a three-night gig at a restaurant that serves deep-fried pickles and a “Cool Ranch Dorito Omelette.”

Now, you already know the game’s fixed. All three are the God’s honest. But still, Georges Perrier—Georges “I declare war on Steve Starr” Perrier—moonlighting in a kitchen that crumbles junk food into the eggs? Well, that casts Le Bec-Fin’s legacy in an unexpected light.

The highbrow/no-brow tug-of-war has been playing out in Philly since at least the 2004 debut of Barclay Prime’s $100 cheesesteak, but Crow & the Pitcher (which marks chef Alex Capasso’s return to Philadelphia after seven years operating Blackbird in Collingswood) is our first restaurant to carry the yupster embrace of cognitive dissonance to what you might call a post-ironic stage.  

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Georges Perrier at Crow and the Pitcher

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Last week we told you about Rittenhouse Row’s cool Culinary Collective, where eighteen restaurants were pulling out all the stops to create unique experiences between August 5th and the 7th. One of those special experiences will be at Crow and the Pitcher. Georges Perrier, who is often spotted relaxing at the Rittenhouse restaurant of Alex Capasso, will be in the kitchen preparing some of his most popular dishes from Le Bec-Fin’s past. A four-course prix fixe dinner will be available for $60 or a seven-course extravaganza will be $120. Seatings are available at 6 p.m. and 8:30 p.m.
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Georges Perrier at Fond for Bastille Day

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On Monday, July 14th, Fond is hosting the legendary Georges Perrier, as he and chef Lee Styer prepare a collaborative dinner. The five-course menu will feature Perrier’s classic French cuisine in celebration of Bastille Day.

Reservations are limited, as there will only be one seating at 7 p.m., so call now. The five-course dinner is $90 and there is also an optional wine pairing. 

Bastile Day Menu with Georges Perrier (PDF)

Fond [Foobooz]

Georges Perrier Loses Le Bec-Fin Building in Sheriff’s Sale (But It May All Be Part of an Elaborate Plan) [UPDATED]

UPDATE 6/12/2014: The new owner of 1523 Walnut Street has moved to evict Avance, the current tenant.

ORIGINAL:

Storied Philadelphia chef Georges Perrier has owned 1523 Walnut Street since 1981. It housed his legendary French restaurant Le Bec-Fin, which closed in June 2013, making way for Avance, Perrier’s tenant. But now, Perrier has lost ownership of the building in a sheriff’s sale.

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The Six Degrees Game of Love, Philly Celebrity Edition

Ever notice how for the bold-faced and famous here, Philadelphia’s social scene resembles a high school? The dating pool is shallow, everyone knows everyone else, and a stroll down the hall (or around Rittenhouse Square) can lead to a memory-lane disaster. Maybe that’s why A-list magnet Roseanne Martin’s latest well-to-do beau is an out-of-towner. Smart move, girlfriend — and a departure for Martin and others whose love connections are local, notable and, like, totes complicated.
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The New York Times on Le Bec-Fin at Vetri

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The New York Times’ Frank Bruni was at the final night of Le Bec-Fin at Vetri where he was able to enjoy a heavenly dinner from a bygone era.

Mr. Perrier teamed with Mr. Vetri in the kitchen, and they produced a seven-course tasting menu that wasn’t just a distillation of the best of Le Bec-Fin but a valentine to a lost civilization, the one where LutèceLa Caravelle and La Côte Basque in Manhattan once flourished.

And what a valentine. From the caviar and the escargots, my dining companion and I proceed to sautéed sweetbreads, a crab galette, a fillet of beef and more, some of it with sauces so rich and intense they’re druggy.

For 3 Nights, a Legend Lives Again [New York Times]

Vetri Is Le Bec-Fin

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For the next three nights Le Bec-Fin will return to its original location and current location of Vetri at 1312 Spruce Street. Marc Vetri is converting his restaurant over to Le Bec-Fin and handing his kitchen over to Georges Perrier. The dinners sold out almost immediately when announced last month. As you can see, Vetri is going all out in transforming the restaurant to its former self.

Check out more photos on Marc Vetri’s instagram feed.

Photo via Carolyn Gracie

Gastronaut: Le Bec Fin Is Dead (Again)

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The death, rebirth, and strange, sad second passing of Philadelphia’s most famous restaurant

We got word early on a Saturday night that something bad was happening at Le Bec Fin.

In phone calls and text messages, sources were telling us that Nicolas Fanucci—the man who bought Le Bec Fin from Georges Perrier just over a year ago, who brought it back from death once and had been the primary architect of Le Bec 2.0—had left. Literally just walked out the front door and vanished.

Thus began the final, shuddering weeks of Le Bec Fin—the restaurant that once was Philadelphia’s pride and joy.

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