JET Wine Bar is celebrating Pennsylvania wines all summer with their Summer of I-76 initiative. The program begins tonight and runs through Labor Day.
JET will feature three local wines at all times that will be available by the glass or as a flight. Up first, three Chardonnays, all from within 4o miles of the South Street wine bar.
- Stargazers Sparkling Chard, $10 per glass
- Penns Woods Chard Reserve, $8.50 per glass
- Karamoor Estate Chard, $9.50 per glass
Jet Wine Bar [Official Site]
Chef Matt Zagorski, formerly of Rouge and 500º is turning L’Oca into Hickory Lane. A sign in the window promises the restaurant will serve “quality local farm fresh ingredients in modern recipes.” Listed as manager on the sign is Jack Henderson, who owned L’Oca with chef Luca Garutti.
L’Oca closed a couple weeks ago and just months after Garutti was arrested for driving under the influence.
It seems the project has been in the works since at least June when Zagorski’s name was attached to a project called 2025. 2025 Fairmount is the address of L’Oca and now Hickory Lane.
Once in a long while, Craig LaBan makes a trip down to Maryland for a review. Yesterday he reviewed Elkton Maryland’s Fair Hill Inn where farm-to-table has been the method long before the term came into vogue.
While the menus differ significantly at every visit, a sense of handcraft is the common thread in the meals – especially with the house-cured salumi, of which there are 20-some rotating varieties, from excellent Tuscan fennel salami to air-dried bresaola, and a citrusy “agrumi” made with peppercorns and goose.
That salumi plate, often served with something pickled from the field (okra, fennel, ramps, garlic) is certainly the best place here to begin. The chefs, though, also begin every meal with a complimentary amuse-bouche spoonful of some fresh-grown inspiration. At our late-summer meal, it was a bite of tender poached rock shrimp dabbed with creamy guacamole, and a snappy fava bean lit with mint from the garden.
Three Bells – Excellent
Fair Hill Inn [Philadelphia Inquirer]
Fair Hill Inn [Official Site]
Hot Diggity has been using its access to farmers’ markets to create new and tasty hot dog creations. Pictured above is Farmers’ Market Dog #2. The hot dog features heirloom carrots and beets tossed in a lemon vinaigrette from Weavers Way Farm and is topped with pickled white peach relish and carrot frawns from Beechwood Orchard’s Biglersville.
Hot Diggity [Facebook]
Attention chefs, retailers and wholesale buyers of grub:
Tonight at 7pm, Fair Food will host Local Grower, Local Buyer at the Reading Terminal Market. This annual event connects the region’s best producers to top-of-the-heap industry consumers. If you prefer to make your purchasing decisions while slightly buzzed, come out between 5:30 and 7 p.m. for a local beer and cheese reception celebrating the release of the Local Food Guide, a collaborative effort of Fair Food and GRID magazine, as well as GRID‘s June Food issue.
Pre-register here to save $5 on admission, or just show up and register during the party.
Local Grower, Local Buyer Tickets [EventBrite]
The May 2011 issue of Philadelphia magazine is on newsstands now. In addition to the 9th Street reviews there are the magazine’s fifteen favorite farmers’ markets, restaurateurs getting into the farm business and a re-visit to Fork.
From the Opinion pages of the New York Times comes praise for Philadelphia. Mark Bittman calls Philadelphia one of the most progressive food cities in the country. Bittman highlights the progress of the Food Trust in getting affordable nutritious food to the city’s poorest residents and Mayor Nutter’s food initiatives including his proposed soda tax.
Go Phily! Better Food in Philadelphia [New York Times]
Yesterday, I had the chance to try the new cheesesteak from Marathon Grill, which the company has been toying with over the last few months. The latest prototype was on the specials list for the first half of the week, though if you’re feeling hungry, note that it’s not available today. Like many cheesesteaks in and around town, this one is served on a Sarcone’s roll. Unlike virtually every cheesesteak on the planet, this one features local grass-fed organic beef, specifically from the family-owned 100 acre Jennings Farm in Medford. Read more »
Brian Freedman visits Noble American Cookery and finds that since Chef Brinn Sinnot has taken over that the food has taken a huge step forward.
It’s been three years since Noble opened its lovely wooden doors on the 2000 block of Sansom, but it’s finally grown into itself. From the concept to the space to the food, Noble has, under Sinnott’s leadership in the kitchen, become what it always had the potential to be: A unified, utterly enjoyable experience, and another reason to head to this part of town for a meal.
Proud to Be a Noble Amerian Cookery [Philadelphia Weekly]
Noble American Cookery [Official Site]
Craig LaBan gets over his non-composter’s guilt and settles in to enjoy the seasonal and green dishes at Queen Village’s Kennett.
[Kennett] has a rustic approach that is satisfying when it’s on the mark, and is especially strong with starters that seem inspired by a cold-weather farm market. Creamy stewed butter beans come ladled over grilled brioche toast beneath a panfried egg. Brussels sprouts roasted with coriander and bacon tumble with thick slices of sunchoke, their nutty snap reminiscent of a fresh water chestnut.
Two Bells – Very Good
Kennett Restaurant [Philadelphia Inquirer]