Chef Nathan Volz has been holding down the line at 10 Arts for three months now, ever since the departure of his boss and mentor, Eric Ripert. In that time, he has stuck (more or less) to the vision of 10 Arts as it stood under Ripert (and Jen Carroll), but no more.
Beginning tonight, there is a single new menu for the space which will bridge both the lounge and the main dining area, bringing the entire floor under the sway of Volz’s new “American comfort cuisine” take on the board. This means a mix of small, medium and large plates, desserts, custom cocktails and Philly classics–which, in turn, means that you can now get a cheesesteak at 10 Arts (with shaved tri-tip and shallot confit, natch), in case that’s one of those things you’ve really been waiting for.
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Been a big day in Eric Ripert news. First came word that he was stepping away from the Ritz-Carlton’s Westend Bistro in Washington D.C. effective January 1st. And now the Insider is reporting that Ripert is also ending his association with 10 Arts at the Ritz-Carlton here in Philly–the place that made Jen Carroll famous before that whole Top Chef thing. The reason? Some mystery restaurant in NYC affiliated with his celebrated fish palace, Le Bernardin.
For the time being, 10 Arts staff (including sous chef Nathan Volz) will continue to operate 10 Arts as 10 Arts, but what we’re wondering over here is whether a recent visit by Jose Andres (who recently began a partnership with Ritz-Carlton at their new, ultra-luxury property, Dorado Beach in Puerto Rico) to the kitchens at 10 Arts while he was in Philly has anything to do with anything.
Because, seriously, losing The Ripper sucks. But trading him for Jose Andres would go a long way toward making me feel better…
Eric Ripert Leaving 10 Arts [The Insider]
Bitterness. Spite. Tears. These have been the seasonings most commonly used during this generally weak season of Top Chef. And this week’s episode started off just the same…right up until the lobsters hit the conveyor belt.
With Bev on cloud nine after her Pyrrhic victory in last week’s elimination challenge and the rest of the cheftestants wanting to shove her in a locker, they are met in the stew room by Colicchio and boomeranged back to San Antonio. There are no police checkpoints on the way back, no surprise challenges, just a lot of quietude and angry tension that could have used an audible fart to lighten the mood–especially in the girls’ car. I’m sure if Beverly even so much as made a peep, Lindsay would have used all of her neck muscles to slap the teeth right out of her mouth.
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We already let you know that his Ripert-ness was going to be in Philly, bringing a little taste of Le Bernardin to 10 Arts for a few, special nights. But tonight, he isn’t going to be in the kitchen because he has a friend in town: his dark alter-ego, Anthony Bourdain.
The two of them are going to be onstage at the Merriam Theater tonight at 7:30pm, telling “fascinating, hysterical and sometimes shocking stories about their culinary experiences,” according to the PR shills. Oh, and they’re going to be taking questions from the audience as well, so if there’s ever been something you wanted desperately to know about judging Top Chef, eating warthog ass or running one of the greatest restaurants in the world, now’s your chance to get the answer.
Tickets are running between $45 and $55 and can be gotten by calling 215-893-1999, by visiting the Kimmel Center website, or at the box office tonight.
Eric Ripert’s Le Bernardin comes to Philadelphia for just five nights. 10 Arts by Eric Ripert will offer a “Taste of Le Bernardin” Tuesday, November 1st through Saturday, November 5th.The five-course dinner is $95 per person with an optional $45 wine pairing.
On Tuesday night Eric Ripert will be there in a flesh and guests will have the opportunity to meet and mingle. A Le Bernardin-inspired pairing will also be available in the 10 Arts’ Lounge. Juniper Cured Gravlax will be served up with a signature Gin Martini.
Make your reservations now.
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So in case you haven’t heard, the world is supposed to end tomorrow. No, for reals this time. And we’ve got it from an absolutely unimpeachable source: some “fringe Christian radio group” led by 89-year-old Marconi preacher Harold Camping. What’s more, camping is nothing if not exact. He claims that the rapture will begin Saturday, May 21 at 6pm Eastern Standard Time.
And while yes, 6pm seems a bit early for a civilized last meal, there’s still tonight. And in honor of the coming apocalypse (which the Centers For Disease Control is almost positive will be zombie-related), Esquire got 20 big name chefs on the horn and asked them what their last meal would be (brains not included).
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“As noted earlier today, Cantina Feliz got its review from Craig LaBan over the weekend, scoring two bells and the minor complaint that partners Brian Sirhal (who runs the front of the house) and chef Tim Spinner haven’t yet stepped fully out of the shadow of their former employer, Jose Garces. Spinner did some serious Garces time, working under him at Stephen Starr’s El Vez, at Garces’s first solo venture, Amada, then as chef de cuisine at Distrito. Sirhal earned his stripes as beverage director at Distrito before he and high school buddy Spinner jumped out for Fort Washington and their own thing at Cantina Feliz.
Those kinds of influences can be tough to shake off–especially since Feliz is working in the same culinary tradition as Distrito. Might’ve been easier had Sirhal and Spinner opened a sushi bar or a falafel cart, but they didn’t. They chose fancy-pantsy Mexican. And while the Inquirer review was absolutely a big deal, they cooked for someone even more important than LaBan the week before it hit the stands.
Sunday the 17th: The day that Jose came for dinner.”
Cooking for critics is hard. Cooking for your former boss and mentor? That’s harder. Check out the details in “A Review, An Expansion, And the Blessing Of A Former Boss“
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Jen Carroll is a pro now. Working the floor at 10 Arts between seatings and courses during the special event dinner she was cooking alongside boss Eric Ripert, she knew just when to smile, which hands to shake, how to take to the gentle hand on her back and the whispered explanations from her floor managers and PR reps.
“This is Jack and Esther Humpwaffle, of the Atlantic City Humpwaffles…”
“This is Bob and Doris Fleeb. It’s Doris’s birthday today…”
“This is the new idiot they just hired at Philadelphia magazine. You can just punch him if you want…”
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People get a little weird when you call them on the phone and start asking about radiation.
But seriously, 10 Arts was kinda asking for it. I mean, when your head guy goes on CNN and starts bragging about his new dosimeter, what are people going to think? They’re going to think that if a chef is willing to shell out the pesos for a radiation detector then there’s probably a reason for it. And when your head guy is Eric Ripert, co-owner of Le Bernardin and one of the most famous celebrity chefs in all the land? That just makes it even more of a story. Ripert said straight out that he didn’t think that there was going to be any radiation from the Japanese earthquake/tsunami/reactor shitstorm present in his fish or produce at Le Bernardin, but he just wanted to be double-super-sure that his New York customers would be safe.
“I wanted to make sure because some of our clients were asking, actually, if the seafood source was reliable, if what we serve is fine and so on. Our staff was concerned. I was concerned myself. I trust obviously the government and the agencies for testing it. However, I thought by having a machine at the restaurant, it will really make us feel much more comfortable to talk to our clients, for ourselves, and I was very confident that we would find absolutely nothing in terms of radiations, and the result is that we find absolutely nothing.”
So that’s great. No radiation at Le Bernardin. New York is safe.
Which was when I thought, “Hey, what about 10 Arts?”
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Here’s an event for Top Chef fans, whether in love with Eric Ripert’s steely eyes or Jennifer Carroll’s Philly atty-tood, fans will want to be at 10 Arts on Tuesday, April 26th. Eric Ripert and Jennifer Carroll will be bringing the food of Le Bernardin and 10 Arts together for a special six-course Chefs Dinner.
Chef Ripert’s Pounded Yellowfin Tuna with foie gras, toasted baguette and shaved chives and Chef Carroll’s Jamison Farms Rack of Lamb with quinoa and feta tabbouleh, and pomegranate jus will highlight a menu that promises to be great. Last October we were fortunate enough to be guests at 10 Arts for a luncheon that featured Ripert and Carroll, his former sous chef at Le Bernardin. It was apparent that both their games were elevated that day. Dinner will be capped by 10 Arts Pastry Chef, Monica Glass who will be serving a Lemon Dessert with lemon cream, meringue and pistachio dust.
Guests will have the opportunity to meet and mingle with Chef Ripert and Chef Carroll throughout the evening. Autographed copies of Ripert’s Avec Eric: A Culinary Journey with Eric Ripert, and How to Cook like a Top Chef, a cookbook which includes some of Carroll’s recipes from her stint on Top Chef.
Seatings will be available between 5:30 and 10pm. Dinner is $125 per person with an option wine pairing available for $50. Glances from Silver Fox are free (we assume).
10 Arts by Eric Ripert [Official Site]