So remember when we told you about Fork’s Eli Kulp stepping in as a partner at a.kitchen and a.bar in Rittenhouse? Yeah, well it looks like Kulp has had time to look over the space, the set-up and the menu at a.kitchen and decide how he’d like to make his mark.
He’s going to do it by changing just about every single thing about the place.
Okay, maybe not every thing, but he’s certainly changing a lot of it. Like the concept, the basic operating gear of the line and the entire menu. Hell, even the PR people are calling it a “reinvention”.
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Eli Kulp at High Street on Market | Photo by Jason Varney
Trey Popp thoroughly enjoys High Street on Market, Eli Kulp’s follow-up to Fork.
Kulp likes to say that if Fork is “one step left of the mainstream,” High Street is meant to be another step or two to the left of that. Even some of the simplest things on offer here push the envelope on farm-to-table fare—which, let’s face it, has been sorely in need of a little pushing for a while now.
One of my favorites was a bowl of flash-fried broccoli florets battered with such a thin coating of rice flour that the resulting shell was barely visible, then tossed with a “chowchow” subjected to a lacto-fermentation that bent the tangy relish halfway toward spicy kimchi. Think tempura toned down from flavor-dominating crunch to tongue-tickling crackle, with a condiment kicked up from one-note quick-pickle to a full chord of funk.
Three Stars – Excellent
Restaurant Review: High Street on Market [Philadelphia Magazine]
High Street on Market [Foobooz]
Fork already has a tasting menu, but that wasn’t quite enough for chef and serial overachiever Eli Kulp. Starting tomorrow and running Tuesdays through Saturdays, he’ll be serving a new tasting menu called “Our Terroir,” inspired by the local meats and produce available during winter in the Philadelphia region and creating “a strong sense of place by incorporating the traditions, foodways and culture for which Pennsylvania is known.”
So what’ll he be serving other than snowballs dusted in road salt? How about shaved apple salad with wild hickory nuts, or Dallastown venison carpaccio with charred local cabbages and pine tip tea (which he’s calling “The Pine Barrens”). There’s “Kennett Square à la Pascal Barbot,”–local white button mushrooms turned into a galette inspired by the famed Astrance chef, but substituting cashew cheese, smoked sweet potato and citrus for Barbot’s French foie gras, and “Brown Butter Noodles,” the classic Pennsylvania Dutch dish with house-extruded spaghetti served carbonara-style with smoked pork jowl, farm egg and local pecorino. My favorite thing listed on the early preview provided by Fork? “Saffron’s Revenge,” which is rabbit from Bucks County grower Justin Hulshizer whose grandmother’s saffron is grown and eaten by the wild rabbits around his property. Nice.
But hey, don’t listen to me. There’s a video where Kulp explains the whole thing.
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A screen shot from the New York Times video about Fishtown.
Longhaired singer/literary impresario Joey Sweeney gave a little zetz yesterday to Fork chef Eli Kulp, who seemed to look down his nose at Philadelphia when talking about the city in a GrubStreet piece. Kulp said, “People in New York just don’t go to Philadelphia.”
Nonetheless, New York’s paper of record, the New York Times, sure does — and to Fishtown, in particular. (About which we can only say, “Lots of Philadelphians move to New York and work in the media.” Write what you know, and all that.)
Thus we have “Rebirth Along the River” from 2008:
THE Fishtown district of Philadelphia was known as a tight-knit Irish Catholic enclave — and a place to score drugs. … But these days artists easily outnumber fishermen and heroin addicts.
We have a Drink Up column about Johnny Brenda’s, Frankford Hall and other Fishtown haunts. We have a section on Fishtown for 36 Hours in Philadelphia. As recently as October, we have an article about Fishtown’s “creative renaissance.”
And now — this week! — we have this video about Fishtown from the Times’ online Style section. Please watch it before we move on. I will wait.
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Craig LaBan is wowed from bread to cocktails at High Street on Market. And he’s similarly impressed by dinner, especially the dishes that are products of the kitchen’s obsession with fermentation.
A kimchi-style fermented parsley-mint vinaigrette adds punchy spark to the richly marbled Wagyu short rib, served as an irresistible sharing platter with a salad of roasted Brussels sprouts and crispy tater-tot-shaped rice cakes.
That rib was the best piece of beef I’ve eaten in months – and one of several unusual ingredients Kulp revels in serving. Another was a huge pork shank, a sharing entree served over a wooden bowl of cracked-corn porridge scattered with crumbles of liver sausage ragu. The cider-braised mallet of meat was so yielding, it shimmered with juice at the touch of a fork, then fell apart.
Three Bells – Excellent
High Street on Market: Veggie-focused, ambitious, bold cafe at former Fork Etc. [Philadelphia Inquirer]
High Street on Market [Foobooz]
Photo by Neal Santos, City Paper
Adam Erace recognizes that the talent at High Street on Market goes behind Fork frontman Eli Kulp. Baker Alexandre Bois has turned High Street into the best bakery in town. A second dinner at the Market Street sibling of Fork had Erace crowing about one of his best meals of the year.
High Street on Market is Bready for Its Closeup [City Paper]
High Street on Market [Foobooz]
Photo by Jim Graham
Craig LaBan’s Year in Bells came out last weekend. The annual feature includes some revisits to restaurants reviewed earlier and the announcement of a Chef of the Year award.
The Saint James in Ardmore, which was skewered a year ago in its initial review has now been upgraded to a single bell (hit-or-miss). Citron & Rose, which lost its partnership with Michael Solomonov and his Zahav team maintained its two-bells, based on the strength of new chef, Karen Nicolas.
Tiffin Bistro and Red Owl Tavern rounded out the revisites. Each managed to hang on to their one bell ratings but frankly, each sounded lucky to have done so.
Chef Eli Kulp, who came to Fork and High Street on Market from New York’s Torrisi Italian Specialties was named Chef of the Year. LaBan said of Kulp’s cooking, “his knack for unexpected combos and rustic techniques (offbeat pastas, fermenting, charcuterie) produced grand presentations like his whole-duck feast – a multi-part poultry masterpiece that was among the best birds (and meatballs) I’ve ever eaten.”
Craig LaBan’s Year in Bells [Philadelphia Inquirer]
High Street on Market | Photo by Emily Teel
On Wednesday, November 13, High Street on Market will host an dinner with Sicilian winemaker Frank Cornelissen. Chef Eli Kulp will present four-courses featuring plates with locally foraged ingredients to pair with Cornelissen’s wines for $80.
High Street’s communal seating and family-style plates allow for guests to share a variety of dishes while interacting with the winemaker.
More on the winemaker »
Today is the official opening day of High Street on Market, the new concept in the former Fork, Etc. space by the team behind Fork: Ellen Yin, Roberto Sella, and chef Eli Kulp.
In less than a month the space has been significantly transformed. Instead of a refrigerated case along the back wall, there is now an L-shaped butcher block counter stocked with baked goods and a new espresso machine brewing Rival Bros. Coffee. Behind the counter is a small open kitchen and the communal table has been replaced with café seating. Breakfast and lunch options abound, and the team plans to add dinner service, complete with wine, as well.
The food itself seems both original and appealing. There are inventive breakfast sandwiches and a lineup of pastries that doesn’t include a single usual suspect. Instead on offer are “escargots”, swirled buns with fillings of pistachio and golden raisin cream, or romesco sauce with grilled vegetables. We loved the cannoli danish, which looks more like a muffin than a typical danish–a flaky pastry with a heart of ricotta cream, mostarda cherries, and bittersweet chocolate.
We didn’t stay for lunch on this visit, but we’ll definitely be back: Sandwiches we can’t wait to try include duck meatballs with spicy marinara, liver and onions, Swiss cheese on seeded semolina, or roast pork with sharp provolone and fermented broccoli raabe. Salads look just as good, especially the autumn panzanella of roasted squash, marinated and crispy kale, orchard fruit, pecorino, pepitas, and rye croutons.
Check out the photos of the space after the jump.
Show me the pictures
Duck meatballs on a house made semolina roll with duck liver spread, red cabbage, cheese, onions and more than a little awesomeness.