Korean Tacos Around Town

Rick Nichols sets out to find the gold standard of the latest fusion craze, Korean tacos. He writes that the version done at Meritage still holds the crown but we have to admit, we’re particularly intrigued by Doma’s rendition.

Co-owner Patti Moon wasn’t sure about the sour cream-cheese thing on the marinated pork loin tacos, so she opted for a creamy jalapeno dressing touched with mayo and heavy cream. (“That’s the ‘cheese’ for us.”)

Under that she settled on a crunch of raw cabbage, carrots, and red onion in a fermented-chile vinaigrette, and a stripe of kim chi relish, making for one of the most carefully prepared, most tidily-presented Korean tacos in town.

In deference to its Mexican pedigree, she skewers a sleek lime wedge to the side of the tortilla – a jaunty sidecar and snappy salute.

The gold standard for Korean tacos [Philadelphia Inquirer]

Innovative Menu at Doma

Brian Freedman finds that Doma at 18th and Callowhill is not your run-of-the-mill Japanese/Korean restaurant.

Stuffed jalapeño tempura was a highlight, despite my resistance to the charms of cream cheese-raw fish combos (I’ve never met a Philadelphia roll I’ve particularly enjoyed). Here, though, the cheese was utilized well, draping the tongue in a layer of fat that mitigated the jalapeño’s fire and allowed its sweet-smoky character to come out. Surprisingly, the spicy-mayo-kicked shredded tuna wasn’t the star of this show, but it didn’t have to be: It was a bit player, albeit a confident one.

Doma [Philadelphia Weekly]
Doma [Official Site]

Around the Web: New Spots

Apples, and Cheese Please comes back with a pleasing report on Downingtown’s Station Taproom. [Apples, and Cheese Please]

Mom and Dad take Two Eat Philly out to the brand new Tweed where the fish shines but other dishes struggle. [Two Eat Philly]

Mac & Cheese takes a look at the new-ish Cooperage from the point of view of a vegetarian Southerner. She is not very impressed. [Mac & Cheese]

CE Phood takes an early look at the food at Head House and has good things to say about the Asian-inspired bar snacks. The mussels and some of the other options, there’s trepidation there. [CE Phood]

Two Eat Philly finds sushi they like at Doma on Callowhill. [Two Eat Philly]

Solid Korean Comes to Former Wasteland

doma_korean

Craig LaBan doesn’t have to venture far for his latest review as he heads up Callowhill to praise the latest addition to the street’s “restaurant row,” Doma where the Korean dishes work the best.

Hot stone bowls of dolsot bibimbap cradle mounds of rice topped with beef, veggies, and a raw egg yolk that sizzles and crisps at the table, sending up the warm piquance of gochuchang chile paste and sesame oil when you stir the orange sauce in. That signature Korean chile-paste zing finds its way into myriad other winners, such as the chewy tubes of “duk” rice cakes whose taffy-like centers get the subtle contrast of a deep-fried micro-crust. Or the coffee-brined kalbi short rib, which had a nice tenderness to go with its gingery, sweet savor. Or the tuna yuk hwae, a fish variation on a traditional raw-beef dish that brings threads of tuna with a quail egg hemmed in by crunchy rails of deep-fried rice.

Doma [Philadelphia Inquirer]
Doma [Official Site]