It’s a tale of two chefs at Spice 28. Chefs Danny Teng and “Mister Ma” churn out Sichuan and Asian-fusion fare. Trey Popp likes the price point and Mister Ma’s Sichuan specialties.
I’ve liked the Sichuan side of things the best. Dry-pot lamb was electric with ginger and Sichuan peppercorns. That ma la tingle also permeated one of the best (and prettiest) ma po tofu presentations I’ve ever tasted.
But Sichuan is more than just hot-and-numbing, and so is chef Ma’s cooking. The sourness of his quick-blanched, chilled potato shreds was bewitching. The sweet-hot cucumber salad? It’s on par with the version served at Han Dynasty.
Two Stars – Good