Two Retro Reviews from the Weeklies

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Olde Bar | Photo by Arthur Etchells

 

Brian Freedman visits Olde Bar for Philadelphia Weekly while Adam Erace reviews Franky Bradley’s for City Paper. Freedman is in love with the fried clams at Jose Garces’s redone Bookbinders and he’s even more impressed with the redo.

The Olde Bar is a Jose Garces project—the kitchen is helmed by Chef de Cuisine Mike Siegel—but it feels different from his other restaurants around town. Indeed, in his attempt to honor the legendary space, he has accomplished something both difficult and important: Bringing the past into the present, without peddling in either preciousness or hokey nostalgia. The Olde Bar feels both classic and vibrant at once, just like that fried clam.

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Rubb: Good Old Fashioned Barbecue in Manayunk

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After much ado, Rubb, a beer, bourbon and barbecue joint in Manayunk finally opened. And now, Philadelphia Weekly’s Brian Freedman has visited the restaurant and is singing its praises.

 Rubb will win over plenty of fans as word gets out about this simply decorated yet inviting spot an easy drive from the city. The rub itself is a uniquely sweet one, yet not overwhelmingly so, and it’s plenty complex. When applied to the generous ribs and allowed to meld with the meat over the course of its stint in the smoker, an almost molasses-like texture develops on top, sticking to the teeth in layers with each bite and providing the slightest sense of crystalline crunch. Bumping up against the smoky-earthy meat, the result is a mouthful that’s rich in sweetness and savor in equal measure, and a seriously fine serving of ribs.

Rubb [Philadelphia Weekly]
Rubb [Official]

Experiencing the Heights of Soup at Stock

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Brian Freedman sings the praises of Stock, the Vietnamese cafe on Girard Avenue in Fishtown.

Beef pho tastes as deep as some sort of soupy Mariana Trench, the liquid exquisitely, exuberantly rich in character. Mushroom pho is built on a stunning umami-rich broth. Both of them, with a generous scattering of herbs and their perfectly cooked rice noodles, are large enough to share but good enough that you won’t want to. 

There’s way more to Stock than simple broth [Philadelphia Weekly]
Stock [Foobooz]

PHL’s Local Offers Real Food

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The last several times I’ve been to Philadelphia International Airport I’ve considered making the trek down to Terminal F to try out Jose Garces’s menu at Local. But the timing just hasn’t worked out. So I was intrigued when I saw that Brian Freedman reviewed the iPad-based eatery in yesterday’s Philadelphia Weekly.

Everything you eat at Local, from sides to proper entrees, you order through a clever iPad system; you can customize your order, add items, pay through it and even browse the interwebs. And while some people may push back at the lack of much human contact during the meal, I actually found it to be perfectly suited to the context of the airport. Checking your bags, wending your way through security and dealing with the myriad other headaches of air travel are stressful enough. Being able to retreat into your own world in this well-appointed space is fantastic.

Local: It’s actually good food at Philadelphia Int’l Airport [Philadelphia Weekly]
Local [Foobooz]

Avance Is Already a Standout

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Brian Freedman reviews Avance for Philadelphia Weekly. Freedman is full of praise for the two-month old successor to Le Bec Fin and sees it soaring even higher.

But it’s a very good start. In fact, Avance as a whole is so much more than that: Just barely two months into its tenure at that famous address on Walnut Street, it has already done what many thought would be impossible: Staked its own claim on the space and drafted a brand new set of rules. If Avance is this good so early in the game, I can hardly wait to see the heights it eventually achieves. It’s already a standout.

Avance transforms Le Bec-Fin’s old space into brilliant dining magic [Philadelphia Weekly]
Avance [Foobooz]

Nick Elmi’s Laurel Called “Stellar”

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Brian Freedman reviews Nick Elmi’s Laurel for Philadelphia Weekly. Freedman calls the East Passyunk BYOB “stellar.”

Berkshire pork lavished in its triumvirate of treatments, and each one, from silky slices of belly to roasted loin to a crepinette of braised shoulder meat secreted inside a cocoon of crisped-up brioche enshrouded in caul fat, had me longing for it days later. Dragging one bite through the mashed chestnuts, dunking another into the shimmering huckleberry-kale vinaigrette, and leaving a third one unadorned became an in situ study in the range and vision of this kitchen.

New East Passyunk BYOB Laurel serves brilliantly imaginative seafood [Philadelphia Weekly]
Laurel [Foobooz]

Grilled Cheese That’s as Good as It Gets

Photo by Mike Persico

Photo by Mike Persico

Brian Freedman reviews Meltkraft, the grilled cheese stand that’s part of the Valley Shephard Creamery in the Reading Terminal. The grilled cheeses are of course glorious, after all you can choose bacon fat or duck fat for the sandwich to be grilled in. Freedman aslo provides tips on how to resurrect the sandwich should you decide to get it to go.

Artisan Grilled Cheese at the Reading Terminal Market [Philadelphia Weekly]
Meltkraft [Foobooz]

More Praise for East Passyunk’s Noord

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Brian Freedman reviews Joncarl Lachman’s Noord and finds the latest addition to East Passyunk’s restaurant scene is another bright spot.

Though an entree of rabbit leg confit was too much to finish in one sitting—but what a lunch the next day!—I didn’t miss a drop of the creamy sauce at the bottom of the plate; floating with thyme-tinged aromatics, it was a distillation of all that Noord does so brilliantly. As for the rabbit, it maintained a moistness and delicacy that the notoriously difficult-to-cook meat rarely does. Forked with zuurkool (think of sauerkraut) as well as a coin of smoked pork sausage and maybe a tender carrot slice, this was as hearty as it was thoughtful.

Noord brings East Passyunk its first hub of Dutch and Scandinavian cuisine [Philadelphia Weekly]
Noord [Official Site]

Strangelove’s Gets Some Love

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Leigh Maida, Brendan Hartranft, and Brendan Kelly are the gastropub virtuosos of this city, and their transformation of the almost-cursed location is really quite impressive. Brian Freedman had some high praise for the Southern-esque beer bar in Washington Square West:

This is where Strangelove’s finds its greatest success: in its rendering of classics, often with a twist. To that end, fried catfish bites, all creamy and tender inside their crackly carapace, were lovely on their own and even better when dragged through a spicy-tart remoulade. Mushroom torta, constructed on a base of Mexican-style flatbread, proved to be a clever reworking of the more familiar ones that have grown so tired lately. And its topping, like the best of the dishes here, managed to be both restrained and rewarding: arugula, lemon, a truffle vinaigrette and a spread of butter-cooked corn pureed with honey. Even the fried green tomatoes, if their crown of crabmeat ravigote, tomatoes and cucumber was a touch too wet, ultimately won me over with the sheer pleasure of its flavors.

 

Strangelove’s takes bar food to a whole new, exciting level  [Philadelphia Weekly]
Strangelove’s [Official]

Branzino and Stollenwerk, Reborn Together

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It hasn’t been an easy time for Mike Stollenwerk. He once looked like he was heading for an empire with Little Fish, Fish and Fathom Seafood House. But today Little Fish has been sold and the other two have closed. Most recently, Stollenwerk has landed at Branzino, the Center City oldtimer that’s been solid but hardly revolutionary for a long while now. Brian Freedman discovers that there’s still talent in Stollenwerk and it is coming out at the Rittenhouse BYOB.

[H]he’s delivering on the promise of his talent. Branzino is the Rittenhouse stalwart that, if reliable, hadn’t been terribly exciting in some time. Stollenwerk arrived there a couple months ago, and the change is nothing short of astounding: The menu now reads like his own (minus desserts, which will be transitioned shortly), with line after line boasting dishes you really want to eat. And the flavors of the platings are excellent.

Chef Mike Stollenwerk is back, this time at Rittenhouse mainstay Branzino [Philadelphia Weekly]
Branzino [Official Site]

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