Yes, it’s a BYOB. And yes, it’s in Conshy. But even if you consider those to be inconveniences, Chip Roman’s restaurant is flat-out fantastic. It’s sophisticated without being overbearingly avant-garde, pretty and fresh without being precious. The service is just right – not too chummy, not overly formal, not inquiring, “Have you dined with us before?” – and this in the suburbs, where so many restaurateurs say they can’t get good help. And though it’s three years old, it’s the perfect restaurant of the moment. Some things take time to ripen, and Roman’s restaurant is just right, right now. Don’t miss: The liquid-center foie gras terrine with sour cherry, pistachio and toasted brioche, or the exotic combo of lobster with five-spice powder and pomegranate seeds. Save room for: Feather-light cinnamon-spiced beignets. Bargain beat: Don’t miss the $45 Tuesday-night prix-fixe dinner, focused on a single ingredient. If only: Roman would open one in town, so city dwellers wouldn’t have to brave the dreaded Schuylkill. But he won’t. (We asked.) 119 Fayette Street, Conshohocken, 610-397-0888, blackfishrestaurant.com.

As Marc Vetri and Jeff Benjamin continue to expand their Italian-restaurant empire, their original 13-year-old fine-dining outpost isn’t suffering. In fact, it’s getting even better. What to get: The nine-course Grand Tasting, a $135 prix-fixe menu, available only on Friday and Saturday nights, that changes weekly. Trust us: Put yourself in Vetri’s hands, and then trust him. Don’t miss: Rosemary-scented chicken liver ravioli. Paccheri carbonara with foie gras. Rich chestnut fettuccine with wild boar ragu. Whole-roasted baby goat with polenta. A melt-in-your-mouth sweet onion crepe. We could go on. Did you know: This was the original location of Le Bec-Fin. If only: The dining room temperature didn’t fluctuate so wildly. 1312 Spruce Street, 215-732-3478, vetriristorante.com.

Pierre Calmels’s cooking is as heartfelt as his wife Charlotte’s warm hospitality at this very tiny, very Gallic BYOB. It’s no wonder you hear French spoken at half the tables some nights. Don’t miss: The veal sweetbreads. As crispy as toasted parchment, as tender as foie gras. Fun fact: They’re not kidding about the “wild partridge.” Look out for birdshot. We ♥ suburbanites: Free three-hour parking in a roomy lot next door. If only: They took credit cards. And IOUs. And sold weekly meal plans. 1009 South 8th Street, 215-965-8290, biboubyob.com.

Polished service, chef-owner Peter Woolsey’s superior food and a dreamy, authentically Parisian atmosphere make this hidden Queen Village spot a keeper. What to get: The garlicky snails, each portion served in its own teeny, awww!-worthy crock. Duck confit with pan-seared foie gras. Seafood vol-au-vent, which we swear was teleported directly from France. Insider tip: Bistrot’s excellent bang-for-your-buck prix fixes happen on Woolsey’s timetable, not Restaurant Week’s. Join the restaurant’s Facebook group for updates. If only: They had a real bar, rather than a puny four- seater. 623 South 6th Street, 215-925-8000, bistrotlaminette.com.

Creative plates, flawless execution and virtually telepathic service continue to make this lofty Rittenhouse perch worth visiting for more than just its famous brunch. Insider tip: Whether it’s lychee puree with seared foie gras or guava puree with scallops, savory dishes that feature fruit are a great way to go. Don’t miss: The peppermint chocolate soufflé. Bargain beat: On most Sundays and Mondays, all wine bottles are half-price. If only: They could hang on to head chefs longer; there have been three in just over two years. 210 West Rittenhouse Square, second floor, 215-790-2533, lacroixrestaurant.com.

There’s still so much to love about Jeff Michaud’s cooking at this evergreen Italian outpost on North Broad-Vetri-quality pastas, perfect pizzas, and his rare ability to handle both savory and sweet dishes with aplomb. (Hello, coconut tapioca pudding with Italian plums and pistachios.) Don’t miss: House-made cotechino sausage with polenta and a sunny-side-up egg. Any of the seasonal pastas. Pie in the sky: The one with mortadella, Sicilian pistachio pesto and mozzarella. If only: Entrées were as exceptional as the rest of the menu. 640 North Broad Street, 215-763-0920, osteriaphilly.com.

Mike Stollenwerk’s Little Fish sequel gives him room to craft even bigger and more baroque flavors around his namesake ingredient. Who says you can’t pair tuna with veal, or monkfish with lamb shank? Don’t miss: Skate wing with truffled spaetzle. Insider tip: Red wine drinkers, rejoice – Stollenwerk’s style takes well to your color. Fun fact: The splendid beet salad is studded with crispy chicken skin – from a distributor who sells the stuff (organic, natch) with no meat attached. If only: They served more wines by the glass. 1708 Lombard Street, 215-545-9600, fishphilly.com.

Everyone loves a comeback, and the return of Sansom Street’s Oyster House, under its original owners, the Mink family, is a knockout. Neither small platery nor gastropub nor BYOB, it’s one of the few new restaurants in our city that are refreshingly gimmick-free. Don’t miss: The authentically Yankee lobster roll and the meaty, filler-free crabcake. Who comes here: Just about everyone, from power-lunching politicos to tourists and photo-snapping food bloggers. Fun fact: The restaurant sells more than 4,000 oysters a week. If only: They were open on Sundays. 1516 Sansom Street, 215-567-7683, oysterhousephilly.com.

It’s not reinventing the wheel, because it is the wheel. In an era when so few proper fine-dining restaurants are opening (or staying open), the Fountain sets an example with spectacular food and spectacular service. What to get: The velvety roasted veal porterhouse over artichoke spaetzle, topped with a citrusy gremolata. Don’t skip: The cheese cart. Or you might miss a stellar Shropshire or rare Pont l’Évêque. Did you know: Pastry chef Eddie Hales has been with the Philly Four Seasons for 27 years. If only: The staid room were...sexier. Elegant and sexy need not be mutually exclusive. Four Seasons Hotel, 1 Logan Square, 215-963-1500, fourseasons.com.

Chef-owner Marcie Turney and partner Valerie Safran have hit the sweet spot here, with decor (sophisticated farmhouse), food (lip-smacking Mediterranean small plates) and value (prices are just right). What to get: Egg-topped uovo pizza. Pasta with wood-smoked mushrooms, ricotta, and a preserved-lemon/walnut pesto. Save room for: The sensational salted caramel budino. Did you know: They own six other businesses on the same block. If only: The tables weren’t so cramped. Sit at the counter. 110 South 13th Street, 215-546-9300, barbuzzo.com.

The six best seats in Marc Vetri’s most convivial spot are at the countertop overlooking the kitchen, where star chef Brad Spence prepares a small-plates parade of rustic trattoria fare. What to get: The roasted lamb shoulder, so tender it all but disintegrates in your mouth. Insider tip: Those counter seats are first-come, first-served. Get there early. Save room for: The tartufo al bacio–a chocolate-hazelnut snowball stuffed with Amarena cherries. If only: The price point were more in line with the casual vibe. 412 South 13th Street, 215-732-2647, amisphilly.com.

With cooking as spicy as owner Han Chiang’s hilariously blunt banter, this Szechuan BYOB will numb your tongue, shock your ears and blow your mind. Don’t miss: Dan Dan noodles. Crispy cucumbers in house-made chili oil. Beef dry pot. Whom to bring: Everyone you know. Big groups are definitely the way to go. If only: Han could wait on every table. None of the other servers can match his repartee – or his skill at telling you what you should eat. 108 Chestnut Street, 215-922-1888, handynasty.net.

At this NoLibs BYOB, chef David Gilberg serves up the rustic, family-style Portuguese fare he learned from wife Carla Gonçalves’s mother. Don’t miss: The pork and clams or the hearty caldo verde soup. Did you know: Carla makes all the pastries in-house. Consider the bread basket a sneak preview of just how delicious dessert is here. Insider tip: Go on Sunday night for the grilled chicken and ribs, the equivalent of Portuguese barbecue. If only: They were open on Tuesdays and Wednesdays. 614 North 2nd Street, 215-923-8080, koozeedoo.com.

The menu sounds middle-of-the-American-road, but chef David Katz flawlessly injects just enough twists – grits soufflé here, parsley-caper relish there – to make his affordable dishes as compelling as they are comforting. Don’t miss: Unshelled mussels sizzling in a cast-iron skillet. Save room for: Star anise crème caramel. Bargain beat: Wednesdays are BYOB. If only: The vaunted fried chicken weren’t only available at Thursday lunch. 2201 Spruce Street, 215-735-4900, memerestaurant.com.

This very model of a modern South Philly BYOB, owned by a trio of Le Bec and Lacroix alums, has become a force of nouveau deliciousness via a seasonal, sustainable credo and a charming French formality. BYO: Good wine. Front-of-house virtuoso Tory Keomanivong gives your treasured bordeaux the TLC it deserves. Don’t miss: Anything crudo, pork belly or organ-derived. Despite their current omnipresence, here, these buzzwords take on delightful new meaning. Save room for: Malted milk chocolate ice cream with peanut brittle. If only: Everyone else hadn’t discovered this place, too. 1617 East Passyunk Avenue, 215-551-5000, fondphilly.com.

Michael Solomonov’s grand Israeli experiment keeps us coming back again and again, to see just how he’ll mix the comforting (a toad-in-the-hole twist made with sablefish on yolk-soaked challah) with plucky ingenuity (raw lamb with whipped tahini). Insider tip: The brightest stars are in the salatim/hummus and mezze courses. Bargain beat: Well-thought-out tasting menus let you try a lot for as little as $35. Drink: The Marble Rye. It sips better than it sounds. If only: The servers’ new uniforms didn’t seem so prison-guard chic – the old t-shirts were cooler. 237 St. James Place, 215-625-8800, zahavrestaurant.com.

Jose Garces’s most tightly focused concept-small plates, San Sebastian-style-yields the most vivid and surprising flavors going in this Iron Chef’s kingdom. What to get: Boquerones with melon, guindilla chili and fried garlic slices – a $6 ticket to anchovy heaven. Insider tip: If the chestnut soup is available, order it. While you wait: Try to count the number of kitchen personnel listed on the back of menu. You may need an abacus. If only: There were more rice, bread and other ballast to fill out the meal. 114 South 20th Street, 215-665-9150, tintorestaurant.com.

Whether you come for the color-shifting booths or Morimoto-san’s ornate omakase tasting menus, this is the closest our dining scene gets to Fantasia. Don’t miss: Hamachi tartare, a molded cylinder of yellowtail and crispy shallots served with a Japanese mountain peach. Insider tip: Already had the omakase? Say so, and you’ll get a completely different lineup. Save room for: Sea urchin ice cream. Really. If only: They’d remove endangered Chilean sea bass from the menu. Like, six years ago. 723 Chestnut Street, 215-413-9070, morimotorestaurant.com.

How to pick between Stephen Starr’s dueling steakhouses? A chef change at Barclay Prime has stripped it of its magic, but not to worry: The meaty mojo has migrated over to Butcher’s splendid supper-club interior. What to get: The dry-aged Gachot & Gachot porterhouse for two (even if you’re just one). The decadent stuffed hashed brown. The creamed spinach. A personal trainer. Ask for: One of the curved leather banquettes, and make like a 1930s movie star. If only: Philly diners would dress in the High Hollywood style this interior deserves. 1500 Walnut Street, 215-732-4444, butcherandsinger.com.

In this Day-Glo-hued funhouse lined with Mexican wrestling masks, Jose Garces shows that over-the-top decor and upscale Mexican food can coexist. Don’t miss: The pork-tastic chilango huarache: Think carnitas, chorizo and Serrano ham. Drink this: The Hemingway, with chili-infused tequila, maraschino liqueur and grapefruit juice. Insider tip: The Volkswagen table might be the only one in town capable of getting a three-year-old to sit for an entire meal. If only: The banquettes in the restaurant weren’t so darned uncomfortable. 3945 Chestnut Street, 215-222-1657, distritorestaurant.com.

Ellen Yin’s pioneering Old City restaurant is clocking 13 years now, but new chef Terence Feury has packed the menu with fresh ideas that keep us coming back. Don’t miss: Scallops with tomato jam, crisp-fried shallots and piquillo peppers. Drink this: Fists of Feury, a rosemary-tinged pale ale concocted by Victory Brewing in partnership with the chef and his brother. Did you know: During her days as a Wharton student, Yin did a feasibility study on opening a Taco Bell in Center City. We’re glad she put her MBA to better use. If only: The wide-ranging menu didn’t tear two people in 12 directions. 306 Market Street, 215-625-9425, forkrestaurant.com.

The seasonal menu of modern bistro fare at this tiny suburban BYOB in downtown Lansdowne rivals those of its peers in the city. Meet the chef: British-born Sam Jacobson has a clear affinity for English regional cuisine (see: seared scallops with curried cauliflower and apple chutney) and a definite respect for traditional French technique (see: a perfectly executed magret duck). BYO: Wine’s fine, but bring along your favorite spirit to go with the inventive house-made cocktail mixers. If only: The service were as polished as the food served here. 14 South Lansdowne Avenue, Lansdowne, 484-461-2867, sycamorebyo.com.

This slender little BYOB on Phoenixville’s main drag is long on sophistication and short on pretense – the classic neighborhood restaurant to which all others should aspire. Don’t miss: The Buffalo-style – yes, like the chicken wing – sweetbreads. Did you know: Chef Andrew Deery occasionally offers cooking demos (with tastings) for $65 per person. Bargain beat: Check out the three-course, $30 prix fixe on Wednesdays, Thursdays and Sundays. If only: Desserts rose to the level of the appetizers and entrées. 258 Bridge Street, Phoenixville, 610-917-0962, majolicarestaurant.com.

Where else does $33 buy four rich Italian courses – ranging from pillowy gnocchi to calf’s tongue – plus an amuse-bouche? Don’t miss: Braised veal cheek with cherries and walnuts. Insider tip: Lasagna here is always a solid bet. If only: The eager and earnest waitstaffers weren’t so bent on telling you about all the Best of Philly awards they’ve won (but thanks for the PR). 161 West Girard Avenue, 215-203-8707, modomiorestaurant.com.

In a town where there’s Italian food on every block, this BYOB’s self-proclaimed “Italian-inspired” designation doesn’t quite do justice to chef Mackenzie Hilton’s fare or the lovely, unfussy atmosphere. Don’t miss: The whole grilled artichoke with citrus aioli. The crispy-skinned striped bass. Don’t make: Plans. It’s tiny, and they don’t take reservations except for pre-theater, which stops at 6:30 p.m. Insider tip: Head across the street for a drink at sister spot Valanni while you wait; they’ll call you when your table’s ready. If only: They’d take out just one two-top, to create a little breathing room for diners and staff. 1216 Spruce Street, 215-985-2962, mercatobyob.com.

Jose Garces’s first restaurant celebrated its fifth anniversary in 2010, and our relationship with it feels like a healthy marriage: We’ve moved beyond lust to something that’s solid and comfortable, and runs like clockwork. What to get: The octopus, the pernil asada, and the fried vanilla cream. Good luck: It’s been around for half a decade, yet it’s still next to impossible to land a table at normal dining hours. If only: It didn’t feel quite so much like such a well-oiled machine. A bit of culinary whiz-bang would help Amada keep up with the crowd – especially since the crowd now includes Garces’s other restaurants. 217 Chestnut Street, 215-625-2450, amadarestaurant.com.

Why do we adore it? Elevated tavern fare that could go up against pricier food at fancier spots and kill it, plus a cheery and, yes, pubby vibe that feels just as right on a sultry summer afternoon as it does on a snowy winter night. Don’t miss: The sweetly tangy Eberly Farm chicken wings. Overheard: “We came for brunch five hours ago. Now we’re ordering dinner.” Fun fact: They’ve sold more than 31,000 burgers since opening in 2008. If only: Weekends weren’t so jammed. 1946 Lombard Street, 215-545-0350, pubandkitchen.com.

There aren’t many options for strictly vegan fine dining, but this South Street spot is the go-to choice for the meatless set, and a worthy destination for omnivores, too. Don’t miss: The tomato “BLT” salad – you’ll forget all about bacon when you try the wood-fired maitake mushrooms that take its place. Cure carnivorous cravings: With the grilled seitan with horseradish cream. It’s as hearty and flavorful as any steakhouse slab of meat. If only: The generic room had more personality. 611 South 7th Street, 215-923-6117, horizonsphiladelphia.com.

Beneath the grandiosity – the marble, the soaring ceiling, the cushy booths shielded from the prying eyes of the hoi polloi – beats the heart of a great red-blooded steakhouse where the best things will always be a big slab of beef and a potato, even if the latter’s served “fingerling Lyonnaise”-style. What to get: The zingy peppercorn-crusted strip steak. Insider tip: Upstairs at the “mezz” bar, nothing tops $13. If only: The shrimp cocktail stood out. What’s a steakhouse without a great shrimp cocktail? 717 Chestnut Street, 215-925-6000, uniontruststeakhouse.com.

This unassuming sliver of a BYOB specializes in a meal that’s homey and elegant, with dishes that outshine most of those at more-trafficked city haunts. Don’t miss: The sweet-salty butternut squash agnolotti with chunky bits of bacon, sage cream, brown butter and pecorino. Insider tip: Yes, the bread is homemade, but skip it – save room for four courses. If only: It weren’t quite so dark in here. 7 North 3rd Street, 215-931-1560, bistro7restaurant.com.

Jose Garces’s Peruvian-Chinese restaurant has broadened its focus (more generic Asian fusion), but it still offers a lot of fun and approachable exotic flavors. What to get: Crab empanadas, slickly lacquered barbecue pork ribs, and mussels in fragrant coconut broth. Freebie we’d gladly pay for: The insanely delicious, warm, cheesy yucca bread with guava butter. If only: The back room weren’t so deafening, especially when the communal table is full. 707 Chestnut Street, 215-925-5555, chifarestaurant.com.

Donna Ewanciw’s clay-pot approach to Italian cooking yields subtle layers of flavor that add up to meals as genuine as co-owner Toto Schiavone’s hospitality. Don’t miss: Red mullet with lentils. It’s not every day you find this fish so far from its Ionian waters. Save room for: The killer cannoli: limoncello-infused ricotta inside a pistachio shell. If only: The pizza crusts were worthy of their toppings. 722 West DeKalb Pike, Blue Bell, 610-272-5700, radicerestaurant.com.

One of the few Philly restaurants to fuse Mexican and Continental cooking is still churning out food – if not buzz – that’s as compelling as ever. Don’t miss: Orange-ginger carnitas. Did you know: They now (finally) take weeknight reservations. Save room for: Tres leches. If only: They’d offer the BYO-tequila margaritas in sizes smaller than a full pitcher. 106 South 13th Street, 215-546-7100, lolitabyob.com.

This Queen Village BYOB with irresistible old-world charm serves refined French bistro fare, with a serious emphasis on pig. Can-do condiment: The smoky house-made bacon aioli is justly drizzled on just about everything here, from fried oysters to pork belly. Save room for: The poor man’s pudding, a French-Canadian custard-like cake baked in maple syrup. If only: The skilled kitchen would add more variety to the menu. We love pork as much as the next guy, but Cochon could benefit from a few lighter dishes. 801 East Passyunk Avenue, 215-923-7675, cochonbyob.com.

You’re not coming here for the food – although it’s perfectly respectable. You’re coming here for the people-watching, the ambience, the drama...in other words, all the reasons you usually go to a great Stephen Starr restaurant. Drink this: The basilicum cocktail (vodka over muddled cucumber and basil). It’s a salad and a drink, so it’s practically health food. Don’t miss: Anything from the pastry department – baguettes, the buttery tomato tarte, profiteroles. Fun fact: On a weekend day in fine weather, the restaurant serves up to 1,700 guests. If only: All of the food here were as craveable as the bread products. 227 South 18th Street, 215-545 2262, parc-restaurant.com.

The candlelit tables of this five-year-old Malvern bistro are full of diners who, having tucked into slow-cooked lamb with plum mostarda, murmur to themselves: Who needs Philadelphia restaurants, anyway? Did you know: This used to be a BYOB. Now they have a decent, mostly Italian wine list. Don’t miss: The gnocchi, especially when it’s made with chestnut and potato. If only: Philadelphia actually did have more restaurants like this one: white tablecloths, full of grown-ups. 7 West King Street, Malvern, 610-644-4009, restaurantalba.com.

You can’t step in the same river twice, and the same is true of the ever-shifting menu at this trim neighborhood spot, where Ian Moroney’s cooking is as agile as the small-combo jazz albums playing in the background. Don’t miss: The deconstructed bouillabaisse. Insider tip: Seafood is Moroney’s strong suit. Save room for: One of the better warm chocolate cakes around. If only: There were an extra server on hand during busy times. 1713 South Street, 215-545-4448, pumpkinphilly.com.

At this rosy NoLibs tapas bar, the sangria flows freely and patrons gamely feast on the enormous array of (mostly) Spanish small plates. Don’t miss: Pixin con pancetta – a small skewer of fabulously fatty pork belly paired with salty monkfish and seasoned with rosemary. Did you know: The first Friday of every month, there are live flamenco dancers. If only: There were more space to wait for a table. The bar gets crowded very quickly. 1030 North 2nd Street, 215-923-1313, barferdinand.com.

You won’t see anything on the menu at this bustling Kennett Square bistro that you haven’t seen before – you’ll just see it done right. The pasta’s homemade, the pizza’s brick-oven-blistered, and even a simple hanger steak is memorable. Don’t miss: The potato rosti (basically, the best hashed brown you’ve ever had). Baby bonus: Even the kids’ menu raises the bar, with house-made rigatoni. If only: It weren’t always so packed. Make reservations. 696 Unionville Road, Kennett Square, 610-444-5600, sovanabistro.com.

The framed review clippings from its original heyday are beginning to yellow, and founders Matt and Sonjia have gone out West, but the latest incarnation of Matyson injects a global accent into Philly’s classic BYOB vernacular. Don’t miss: Scallops in lobster “pho” broth. Did you know: Lamb belly is the next pork belly? Here, it is. Save room for: Chocolate brownie bread pudding. If only: The decor didn’t smack of a museum exhibit for “Philly BYOB circa 2005.” 37 South 19th Street, 215-564-2925, matyson.com.

The inventive Indian cuisine conjures a palpable excitement that makes first-timers wonder what took them so long, and makes repeat customers feel totally in-the-know. What naan? One bite of Bindi’s spongy-soft stuffed bread (try the spinach) and you’ll swear off the tandoor oven forever. Bargain beat: The $20 Thali Tuesday prix fixe gives groups a shareable platter of food. If only: The cash-only BYOB joint took plastic (and as part of the Turney-Safran 13th Street mini-empire, it should). 105 South 13th Street, 215-922-6061, bindibyob.com.

South Street’s prettiest restaurant serves up all kinds of clever twists on New American cooking, courtesy of chef-owner Mitch Prensky. What to get: Scallops and roasted cauliflower. Duck and waffles. The intensely rich burger. Great for: Last-minute dinner plans; the vastness of the rustic-chic space–and a second-floor dining room–means there’s always room for your party of six. Season’s greetings: Blue Elephant Farm in Newtown Square grows produce solely for the restaurant. If only: The kitchen were as consistent as it is creative. 926 South Street, 215-592 8180, supperphilly.com.

This handsome bar that happens to have a dining room attached turns out a reliable mix of elegantly American noshes. Start with: Your grandfather’s favorite mixed drink. Barkeeps Kip and George would do Pop-Pop proud with their manhattan. Don’t miss: Anything from the small-plates list, like homemade sausage, a crock of warm goat cheese, and vermouth-steamed clams. If only: The back dining room felt as warm and as dapper as the front bar. 701 South 4th Street, 215-238-1888, southwarkrestaurant.com.

The spare decor of this affordable Cypriot BYOB serves only to make the ingredients here–the velvety-rich olive oil, the biting feta, the sweet eggplant–the real stars of the show. Don’t miss: The katsaki alone is worth the trip, a hearty mélange of braised goat, orzo, eggplant, yogurt and salty kefalotyri cheese. Insider tip: Sunday nights are family-style meze feasts for $30 to $35 a person. If only: They could lower the lights a smidge. It’s as bright as an Ionian beach in here. 1001 Spruce Street, 215-922-1773, kanellarestaurant.com.

The original Philly gastropub remains one of the best. Low-key chef Carolyn Angle has been delivering spot-on fare since 2001 to go with the all-local beer list. Don’t miss: The messy, drippy, delicious pork sandwich, the better-than-any-of-our-moms’ meatloaf, or the flaky, rich chicken potpie. Season’s greetings: Don’t expect to devour that killer tomato sandwich with basil dressing again until next summer – Angle strictly adheres to the gospel of seasonal produce. If only: It weren’t so crowded with barely legals on the weekends now. 901 North 2nd Street, 215-238-0630, standardtap.com.

Twelve pizzas, and not a bad one among ‘em. But that’s just part of the appeal of Stephen Starr’s corner pie joint; there’s also the thin, crispy crust, the smell of baking cheese, the chefs rolling dough in plain sight. Don’t miss: The tartufo pizza, with egg, truffle, fontina and parmesan. Insider tip: Bring the kids. It’s the most family-friendly of all Starr restaurants. If only: The decor were more inspired. We like our Starr restaurants to look like Starr restaurants (see: Butcher & Singer). 420 South 2nd Street, 215-320-8000, pizzeriastella.net.

Stylish and affordable, this gourmet-pizza newcomer is the perfect place for an in-between, impromptu meal. What to get: The polpettini pizza, topped with tiny veal meatballs. Insider tip: Can’t deal with the crowds? Grab a drink next door at the bar called Bar, and Zavino will deliver a pizza to you. If only: We’ll put up with a lot for decent pizza in this town, but if it weren’t so miserably cramped, we’d visit more often. 112 South 13th Street, 215-732-2400, zavino.com.

It’s the last of a dying breed. Old World elegance (pink marble, thick drapery), soigné service, and tasty – if not groundbreaking-Italian fare has kept the Sena family’s Old City stalwart chugging along for the past 30 years, while similar spots have come and gone. What to get: The tender calamari, homemade pastas. Did you know: There are 13,000 bottles on the wine list. Splurge on: The rack of lamb for two. If only: It weren’t quite such a stalwart. Tradition’s nice, but it could use a breath of fresh air. 8 South Front Street, 215-922-2803, lafamiglia.com.

The barbecue joint from the owners of Zahav initially struggled to find the zone between authentic smoked Texas flavors and Philly’s particular palate, but it’s finally hit its stride. What to get: The earthy smoked chicken is exceptionally flavorful and moist. Don’t miss: The sweet-potato casserole; the veg is as good as the gooey toasted-marshmallow topping. Save room for: The down-home-delicious pecan pie. If only: The room felt less corporate ’cue and more cozy ‘cue. 900 South Street, 215-625-8510, percystreet.com.

Get past the defects common to many hotel restaurants–boring wine list, unfocused menu–and let Guillermo Tellez’s ebullient international spice palette paint you a vividly flavored masterpiece. Don’t miss: Roast chicken over pink fettuccine noodles infused with lightly pickled beets. Fun fact: As Charlie Trotter’s longtime sous-chef, Tellez helped invent and popularize the microgreen. If only: The service weren’t as awkward as the senseless square-strewn decor. 121 South 17th Street, 215-563-5008, square1682.com.