The Philly Mag 50: Restaurants 1 to 20

15. Le Bar Lyonnais
15. Le Bar Lyonnais
There’s just something about Le Bar Lyonnais — ring the doorbell for admittance, then sneak past the hostess, down the stairs, beyond the coatroom — that makes you feel like you’ve discovered the inner sanctum of Philadelphia. It’s a place out of time, an upholstered clubhouse of sorts for those Philadelphians who can linger over — and afford — a three-hour, three-bottles-of-burgundy lunch. (That’s a dying breed; the restaurant is now serving lunch only on Friday and Saturday.) It’s here that Georges Perrier relaxes while his diners practice their posture in the whisper-please formal dining room of Le Bec-Fin above, and here that those-who-know head after the dessert cart. But for all that, the casually elegant subterranean room, with its small, well-tended bar and handful of tables, is surprisingly welcoming. The menu applies Le Bec’s almost 40 years of talent to French standards, and there’s no place in town we’d rather sit down to the classics: onion soup topped with blistered gruyère, vinegary frisée salad with crisp lardons and a tender poached egg, and a glass of that burgundy.



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