’s a newbie, but we’ve placed it so high on our list because of the oh-so-many things it’s doing oh-so-right, right now — and its obvious potential. There’s the casual-but-polished dining room anchored by an approachable bar (pouring quartinos of wine — our new fave). There’s the slightly daring location on a neither-here-nor-there stretch of South Street. There’s the sized-just-right plates. And there’s the food on those plates. While the occasional item could use a little more thought (a recent marinated octopus dish with miso dressing left much to be desired, and desserts are only fair), most are brilliantly conceived, with flavors that force you to savor every bite slowly. Squash gnocchi is almost sauceless, yet plenty moist and punched up with finely sliced sweet-braised radicchio and salty Italian bacon. And chef Mitch Prensky reinvents ingredients without resorting to a science degree, as in a sweetbread dish where creamed, licorice-infused Swiss chard has an apple-like texture. The few quibbles we have are no doubt because of the bar Supper has already set so high.
Pictured: Mâche with chanterelles, green apple and Beaufort cheese
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