What do you do after Bon Appétit asks of your restaurant — yes, we’re going to repeat it again — “Is this the best Italian restaurant in America?” Admirably, if you’re Marc Vetri, you change things up. (Though not in the dining room, which could use just a few of-this-century touches.) He moved many of his classic dishes — the spinach gnocchi, the sweet onion crepe — into a permanent “hall of fame” category, leaving room on the menu for new Vetri
chef Brad Spence to make his mark on the miniature Center City kitchen. Spence’s sensibilities are not, of course, far from Vetri’s, and you can still expect elegant pastas (recently, tagliatelle with assertive tuna bolognese) and deeply flavored meats (think guinea hen bathed in mushrooms and cream, venison balanced with quince and bitter chocolate) as well as an unexpectedly affordable, mostly Italian wine list. All that, and we’ve got Vetri at number 7? He’s just got more talented competition than ever before — including his own new restaurant.
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