Conshohocken | Seafood | Entrée: $21—$30
Last Year’s Ranking: 3

This clean-lined Conshohocken BYO celebrates simplicity—so light and airy, all pale grays and Shaker-style chairs. Amiable servers don’t even play up the complexity of chef Chip Roman’s dishes, though they certainly could wax poetic on the way the cherry jus mingles with the pistachio-crusted ball of foie gras, or how the smoked ­salmon wrapped around a soft deep-fried egg meshes so nicely with the crème fraîche. Happily, the scene, the servers and the chef all let the food speak for itself. And this food doesn’t just speak; it sings—­without ever being heavy or overdone. Order: The delicate bouillabaisse is a proven crowd-pleaser, but you can’t go wrong with the house specialty—fish. 119 Fayette Street, Conshohocken, 610-397-0888.

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Photograph by Jason Varney