OUR RATING: 4 STARS
The menu at Striped Bass was once famous for offering no meat-eater options; now, Butcher & Singer, housed in the same sweeping former Center City brokerage space, offers almost nothing but: a hulking dry-aged porterhouse; a crisply seared, lush Delmonico. Nothing’s bold — the tableside Caesar lacks the pungency of anchovies, the Butcher salad is as comfortable as an Italian hoagie — but bold’s not the point. This is such pure, gauzy-lensed nostalgia, from the houndstooth carpeting to the green beans amandine, that it’s a surprise the leftovers — and there will be leftovers — don’t arrive in a tinfoil swan. Niche:
Stephen Starr-style Midwestern kitsch. Evidence: The mural of Dogs Drinking Cocktails.Signature steak:
Indian Ridge Prime 28-day dry-aged porterhouse. The tab:
Steaks $38 (12-ounce filet) to $88 (33-ounce porterhouse); sides average $9.16. Wine list:
This extensive and well-rounded list favors big reds but has a surprisingly good selection of classic French whites and Italian reds, like Altesino’s $84 rosso di montalcino.
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