The original celebrity chef’s first East Coast operation is two, two, two bistros in one. Channeling Spago, Puck’s no-reservations-required café opens up to the gaming floor and, come dinnertime, sees a line to get in. Behind the café is a glass-walled, taupe-hued, reservations-please dining room—hint: this is where you’d rather sit. Dividing the two is the chef’s signature wood-fired pizza oven, cranking out pies topped with spicy chicken and roasted garlic, or smoked salmon and crème fraîche, and warming over-the-top truffled potato chips smothered in Maytag blue cheese. Still, what you want comes from the big kitchen in back: delicate goat cheese and beet napoleons, avocado-flecked lobster and crab cocktail with horseradish flan, and grilled lamb chops with niçoise olives. Oh, and the wine and cocktail lists aren’t too shabby, either.
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