Mount Airy is the happy home to a new bistro (in the old Bitar’s location) with a real recession-friendly concept. No glass of wine is over $8—and the whole list is available in half-liter or liter carafes (generally the best way to get the most booze for your buck). The affordable entrées average $16, and are all-American comfort food. Although the kitchen’s inconsistent, a couple of items were standouts: buffalo meatloaf with garlicky mashed potatoes, fried chicken with bacon-specked collard greens, and a special milk-and-homemade-cookies plate for dessert.
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