West Side Gravy

714 Haddon Avenue
Collingswood, NJ 08108

Phone: 856-858-7153

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In Collingswood, where drivers brake at crosswalks and a quarter still buys an hour at some parking meters, meatloaf is back. So is Salisbury steak, and shepherd's pie. Chef Alex Capasso, who opened Blackbird in 2007, is trying to sell the town on TV-dinner-style dishes at his second restaurant, West Side Gravy. At its best, the restaurant makes you wonder why we've exiled some of these dishes to microwave-ready freezer trays. Shepherd's pie is actually delightful when you use fresh peas and whip the potatoes into a downy, crisp-edged pillow. Meatloaf is voluptous when drenched in a concentrated veal stock. And one bite of the BLT, a seamless union of pancetta and marinated tomatoes, could ruin a vegetarian.