The Oaks’ shiny, stained-glass-adorned room may be a casino throwback, and its crowd may include partying college kids and leisure-suited seniors, but its kitchen is first-class. This is the place to roll up your sleeves and loosen your belt. The rich crab-and-corn chowder, flavorful sea bass, and any of the classic steaks are worth the calories, and oversize portions practically mandate doggy bags. Three summers ago, the steakhouse annexed a brightly lit, café-style bar that serves as a holding area for diners waiting for a table; it’s a generally comfortable spot to drink a generously poured glass of Brunello, catch a game and order a burger (but skip the sushi).
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