There’s no pretension in this eatery, which skillfully skirts the American West gimmick it could revel in. The exhaustive menu accommodates all appetites, but meat and potatoes are, of course, the focus. Each sizeable steak—choose from ho-hum beef or immensely more flavorful bison—comes with two generous sides, at a price tag that’s half that of some other steakhouses. But the sheer amount of food sometimes overshadows the flavor, as with the sugar-shock, feeds-six apple crisp. Niche: A homey home on the range. Signature steak: 11-ounce Kansas City strip, of beef or bison. The tab: Steaks $16.99 (10-ounce prime rib) to $31.99 (eight-ounce bison filet); sides average $2.29. Wine list: Concise domestic-only list is a breeze to use, but sacrifices variety. Value wines rule—75 percent are under $50—like yummy Hayman & Hill cab at $39.
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